An overdue book review and recommendation.

As a byproduct of complying with “social distancing” and “shelter-in-place” directives, I started browsing a few of my wine books.  One that seems to have survived the challenge of having relevant and timely information is Wine Style by Mary Ewing-Mulligan and Ed McCarthy. Though published in 2005, its information and advice are still current and useful, especially for those open to exploring new approaches to wine appreciation. 

You may be unfamiliar with their names, but they have authored three editions of the highly successful Wines for Dummies book, and six other editions in the For Dummies series. Wine Style is their effort to provide a new perspective to understanding wine, a sensory one.  That is, why it tastes good.

The authors define wine style as “a set of characteristics through which wine manifests itself—the composite personality of the wine.”  Those principal characteristics are appearance, acidity, tannin, sweetness and alcohol (body), plus other structural qualities like balance, depth and concentration. With those elements in mind Mulligan and McCarthy see four major White wine styles, four styles for Red, two for Rosé and two for Sparkling Wine.

For each White they see “stylistic markers” that typify it, while at the same time differentiating it from the other three.  Those characteristics are 1) flavor intensity, 2) acidity level, 3) body weight and 4) the “presence or absence of oaky character.”  Based on that, their four white styles are 1) Fresh, unoaked whites, 2) Earthy whites, 3) Aromatic whites, and 4) Rich, oaky whites. 

The four Red styles are differentiated by 1) the level of tannins extracted, and 2) how flavorsome and fruity the underlying grapes are.  Those aspects are detailed in the four styles which are 1) Mild-mannered reds, 2) Soft and fruity reds, 3) Fresh and spicy reds, and 4) Powerful reds.

The two styles of Rosé are separated by level of sweetness and for Sparkling wines they are either 1) fresh and fruity for current consumption or, 2) rich, earthy and complex by virtue of aging at the producer.

In the first two chapters they cover the notions of Style (Structure + Aromatics) as well as commenting on Wine Quality, which includes the important notions of balance, depth, length and concentration.  Interestingly, they do not support the qualities of intensity (for aroma and flavor) or age-worthiness as being defining aspects of Wine Quality.  

However, most wine enthusiasts know those two aspects, which wine critic Robert M. Parker championed, are what propel wines into the 95+ ratings and beyond.  (Fruit bombs may not necessarily be wines of high quality.)

Each Style is handled separately in the remaining chapters, and for each they list the relevant underlying grapes, as well as specific wines and/or producers to seek out.  For example, in Unoaked Whites, where Italy prevails, they list these as most representative of the style: Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Soave. Verdicchio, and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. 

Also, there is a nifty “Stylistic Siblings” section in each chapter wherein they point out how the style being detailed is different from its three other white or red siblings. For example, compared to Earthy Whites, Fresh Unoaked types are lighter bodied, more acidic and less substantial, while Aromatic Whites are fruitier and more flavorful.  

Wine Style is a book rich with information and advice, and would be helpful for those wishing to get beyond Cabernet and Chardonnay, or for those wishing to brush up on their current perspectives.  Wine appreciation is like any other pursuit (music, food, art, etc.), it has much to offer if you’re willing to make the effort. The book is still available, new or used, on the Internet at very low prices.