The What and Why of blended wines.

Most wine enthusiasts know New World wines are labeled either as 1) the main varietal which underlies the wine, or as 2) a blended, proprietary wine that is branded and trademarked by the producer.  Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are examples of the former, with Yellow Tail (from Australia) and Fat Bastard (From France) exemplifying the latter.  In Europe, wines are (primarily) labeled and identified by their appellation—the geographical region where it is produced; for example, France’s Bordeaux and Spain’s Rioja are world class appellations. 

Varietally labeled wines must contain at least 75% of the underlying grape identified on the label. I’m guessing most contain 95% or more.  With anything less than that, especially at the permissible 75% level, it would so drastically affect and alter the base wine, that it would likely look, smell and taste like something far different, and, thereby, become a de facto blend.   

Blended wines are what their name suggests. They typically consist of at least 40-50 percent of the primary grape plus smaller amounts of supporting grapes.  Each grape has a very specific set of underlying qualities that reflects how it looks, smells, tastes, and feels.  Those underlying qualities can be drawn upon (selectively) by the winemaker to create the style he/she intends.  While Europe has many well known blends (e.g. Bordeaux, Rioja, Chianti), Napa Valley has achieved a notable level of fame for a couple of its blends.

When the now famous Prisoner red wine was first released, I snickered at the alleged blend of grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Petit Syrah, and Charbono—the blackest of black grapes!  Finesse and elegance did not seem to be the objective. Rather, deep and dark, rich and ripe, oily smooth, and being intensely concentrated was the goal. It has been wildly successful, and my snickering ceased when I recently read the brand name was sold for allegedly well in excess of $250 million. 

Another Napa Valley brand, Meiomi Pinot Noir, was rumored to have a very unusual mix of grapes for its highly successful red.  According to a respected wine magazine, Meiomi’s Pinot Noir blend included small amounts of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Grenache.  Although unloved by the critics because of its sweetness level and very general AVA sources, the brand name reportedly was sold for over $300 million. 

But there’s blending, and then there’s when something more is going on than merely tweaking a wine’s ultimate identity.  In the popular 2004 movie Sideways, the character Miles savaged Merlot’s reputation, and by default, made Pinot Noir America’s “with it" red wine.  Capitalizing on that, Gallo began importing the Red Bicyclette, an inexpensive Pinot Noir from France’s hot Languedoc region.  Eighteen million bottles were sold over a two year period, but Sacré bleu, that was about one third more than could realistically have been produced there! French authorities sniffed out the deception: when Pinot Noir inventories were depleted, the Bicyclette was then bottled with (gasp!) mostly Merlot.   

Those of you who’ve lived in regions with volatile swings in temperatures, know that diethylene glycol, an engine coolant known as antifreeze, is needed to avoid freezing the radiator in winter as well as to avoid overheating in summer.  But who ever thought it might be beneficial in wine—summer or winter?  Well, a few 1985 Austrian bulk wine producers did, as they were caught adding vintage radiator coolant to increase the sweetness octane in white wines.  Needless to say, Austrian exports crashed, and it took years for the industry to recover. 

Shortly after that in 1986, and far more incredulously, an Italian winemaker decided to boost the alcohol and body level in his wimpy Barbera by adding methanol (wood alcohol) to it.  It fatally poisoned twenty-three and hospitalized another ninety.  He and an additional twelve others were arrested and charged with manslaughter.  One can only wonder, “What were they thinking?”

My current favorite red, Brunello di Montalcino, also experienced its own “time in the barrel."  Sangiovese, the only authorized underlying grape, is not known for being intensely dark. After years of persistent rumors, it was revealed in 2008 that several (if not many) Brunello producers, wanting to give consumers their preferred, inky-black reds, were enhancing their Sangiovese with other, unapproved red grapes.  Wines were declassified, fines were levied and reputations were affected, but if anything, and since then, the appellation has roared back and is receiving uniform acclaim for most of the recent vintages.

Irrespective of the above vino-trivia, and if you've endured to this point, I wrap up this novella with a wish that you’re drinking the real thing, however it may be labeled; that it’s true to and representative of its type; that it’s well made, flavorsome and priced right; and that’s it’s one you would, and do, share with friends.  Cheers!