In my blog
post of January 11th, I suggested that the single most important
part of the multi-step tasting protocol
is the Sniff stage. In that step, one
will encounter—depending on the wine’s age, type, style and winemaking methods—a
variety of scents or smells that are either primary, secondary or
tertiary. Also, it tends to confirm or
otherwise validate the color/appearance findings as to the wine’s general
condition.
However, as pointed
out by others, I gave the final step, Sip and Savor, an inadequate discussion
by stating that it merely “verifies and sums up the overall observation.” That
is not entirely accurate. And so, onward
with the principles and assumptions that underlie that final tasting step.
To be sure, it is far
more than a simple, five-second, “sip and swallow,” although I suspect that is
how most of us do that. Just as in the
Sniff step, attentive mindfulness is essential to discovering what a wine’s underlying qualities
are. And even though it is often
described as a sip it actually calls for a good ounce or two, held in the mouth
for several seconds, to facilitate access to most areas of the mouth and
tongue.
Also, it’s one thing
to be delighted by the entrancing aromas of fresh flowers and fruits, as well
as the earthy scents of mushrooms and wet leaves, but thereafter one has to arrive
at a conclusion about a wine’s style
and overall quality level—how it
tastes, and how it feels in the mouth. That’s
right, how it feels.
Entry level wine enthusiasts
who roll their eyes at the notion of secondary and tertiary aroma descriptors, will
likely react the same with the notion of mouthfeel. But this descriptor is more than vinous bullcrap,
because mouthfeel describes the physical (think tactile) aspects of a wine’s texture.
For example, does it taste very sweet, moderately sweet or bone dry? Is it lifeless, crisp or tart? Is it smooth, lightly astringent, or coarse? And, is it light, medium or full bodied?
Sharp-eyed wine geeks
will note that those last four questions point directly to wine’s structural
components which are sugar, acidity, tannins and alcohol. They define the fabric of a wine’s texture,
and a wine is said to have good structure when all those parts are in balance,
without one or the other dominating. Those
are the particulars that need to be addressed and judged during the Sip/Savor
step.
Determining those aspects
in a few short minutes can be daunting for beginning wine enthusiasts, but the
effort is not totally unlike music appreciation. Certainly, the main melody as
a whole can be appreciated, but one can also focus on specific instruments or
sections; how they sound individually, and how they all collectively contribute. As such, just as you might have an “ear” for
music, you can also develop a probing palate to appreciate wines.
And finally, once the
above structural aspects have been assessed, then it’s time to draw some
conclusions about how they all come together and form the wine’s general quality and style. Was it a simple, medium bodied,
one-dimensional pour that didn’t offend?
Or did it also not engage and/or delight you either?
Or moving up the quality ladder, was it
attractive, complex and full-bodied,
with intense colors and aromas? And lastly, was it well balanced, delivering
a pleasing, lingering finish?
If so, be sure to buy a case of it, because many consider complexity,
intensity, balance and lingering finish to be the attributes of an outstanding wine.
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