After ten consecutive years of double digit sales growth in the
Established,
international wine critics have published vintage tasting reports, and several
well known, highly rated, USA dining spots include Rosés on
their wine lists. And let's not overlook Miraval, Brad and
Angelina’s very own Provencal creation, which continues to receive positive press coverage
and ratings.
Of the three basic production
methods—maceration, saignée, and blending—only the
latter is looked down upon as not being the “appropriate” way to vinify a
quality Rosé. (In France , except for the Champagne
appellation, blending red and white wines to yield a Rosé is illegal.) And while
the other two methods may sound different, they are, in fact, quite alike in that
soaking the skins and extracted juices and solids (maceration) is common to
both. They only differ as to whether the
winemaker only wants a Rosé or he/she wants both a red and a Rosé.
Maceration, also known as
direct press, is when Rosé is the one and only desired outcome. The method begins the same as typical red
wine production—crush the grapes and let the skins and juice soak together
until it is time (sans the color and texture-supplying skins) to proceed to
fermentation. The duration of maceration
is what differentiates Rosés from reds. For Rosés it varies from less than 24
hours to a day or two, depending on the nature of the grapes as well as the
winemakers target as to the intensity of color, aromas and flavors.
Saignée,
(sen-yay) or “bleeding off” is when the winemaker’s principal aim is to achieve
more color, depth and concentration in the red wine. Think of it as a “twofer” proposition—two
wines from a single crush. Early in the
maceration, some of the juice is bled off and fermented as a Rosé. Meanwhile, the red wine crush is left to macerate for a much longer time
in a smaller volume of juice, with the end result being a more complex and powerfully
extracted red wine.
Inasmuch
as both methods are maceration based, one should expect that there is very
little, if any perceptible difference between the two. I have enjoyed Rosés
that proudly display “Saignee” on the label, however, I have never noticed
Provencal wines to distinguish themselves by announcing their wine results only
from “pure” maceration. And quite candidly, I have never paid much attention to
their differences, if any, because when it comes to assessing Rosés, all I ask
of them that they be fresh, fruity and well balanced.
For
a slightly different take on Rosé, you might consider sampling the wines from Tavel,
an appellation in southern France
near Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where, interestingly, Rosés are the only wines
they produce. You read that correctly, nothing but Rosés! Their method, which involves a longer
maceration, are more like light bodied reds, and offer an interesting contrast
to the breezy Provencal style. Enthusiasts
with lower acid preferences may find these more to their liking.
I should also mention that there are a few Rosés that can be quite substantial and have the ability to age and evolve into something more
interesting and complex than simply being fresh and fruity. I have in the past come across a few with four
or five years of age that were quite surprising. They were balanced, well structured, and displayed a reserved and intriguing textural
profile.
And lastly, if you're curious about the appellations and winegrowers that produce such age-worthy wines, wine critic Eric Asimov discusses them in his interesting May 21, 2015 New York Times Internet article. Click here to get up to speed on that topic.
And lastly, if you're curious about the appellations and winegrowers that produce such age-worthy wines, wine critic Eric Asimov discusses them in his interesting May 21, 2015 New York Times Internet article. Click here to get up to speed on that topic.
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