tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-11631860806117249782024-03-19T05:43:06.574-07:00TomBarrasWineCommentaryA very personal account—an Oenophile’s Diary—of experiences and observations while exploring the fascinating world of wine appreciation. It is my hope that you find some of the posts to be interesting, and, dare I say, even entertaining.
tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.comBlogger145125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-41402138462518651332024-01-31T14:01:00.000-08:002024-01-31T14:01:20.428-08:00<p> <span style="background-color: #fff3db; color: #1b0431; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", sans-serif; font-size: 18.2px;"><u>Why did that wine seize my attention?</u></span></p><div><br /></div><div>This article appeared here in 2018, but its advice is still relevant today.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-3674783426052473773" itemprop="description articleBody" style="background-color: #fff3db; color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWE8gNBn2w4qJNf8vkLmsgYY18WjBPcimS9tuyAzaKzcDQaLnLzlokNC4GsPK52F9afOJyYlzEXYpM1tcDIKkBF2nZXYdAFyGwV3QSNdTmQVTOgzzKWszNp3AzTE06v_5v9mZ2Nnbf58/s1600/high+shadow+taster.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #473624; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="750" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVWE8gNBn2w4qJNf8vkLmsgYY18WjBPcimS9tuyAzaKzcDQaLnLzlokNC4GsPK52F9afOJyYlzEXYpM1tcDIKkBF2nZXYdAFyGwV3QSNdTmQVTOgzzKWszNp3AzTE06v_5v9mZ2Nnbf58/s200/high+shadow+taster.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="200" /></a></div><div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">I’m sure you’ve experienced it as well, but there are times when a wine, something out of the ordinary, turns my head and grabs my attention. It can occur with just about any wine.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Red or white, newly released or cellar aged, New World or Old World. The color, aroma and flavor may be representative, but there usually is something else “going on,” something more complex and interesting, something that teases my taste buds and palate, that nags at me to find out why.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIU3giARjoxIwa5hnt_f4fqJFj_XJChWDcqVIxSLevQp_g9ZbTECghI7XsO12zkNWKXSdeWKxLrk4z1cVbplmhYzlLI9nRrMPBrIdds3ZoYyeAS4RoqKXCjQZi-cCEsRlxC2lPGHoGoA/s1600/couple+dining3.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="195" data-original-width="355" height="109" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaIU3giARjoxIwa5hnt_f4fqJFj_XJChWDcqVIxSLevQp_g9ZbTECghI7XsO12zkNWKXSdeWKxLrk4z1cVbplmhYzlLI9nRrMPBrIdds3ZoYyeAS4RoqKXCjQZi-cCEsRlxC2lPGHoGoA/s200/couple+dining3.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="200" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">No question, there is a time for wine tasting (mindful and analytical) and there is a time for carefree, casual drinking.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>For this tooth-stained enthusiast, however, the former seems to occasionally overtake the latter, even if it’s at home while my wife and I are enjoying the most casual of food. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Moreover, the tasting protocol (swirl, snip, sip, savor) is, more often than not, merely the starting point. If you’re like me—curious why that wine is so unique and appealing—then you start looking for answers.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjJmrz4cWXf-JuTsmaJXwLKQ-eeRNOYXELJuJl5O69wUYDAyRN3zC52X8nbSn4dGvvyr0FGYZnnVXEYnXOvVn6yejwHNEBJ-7U8iv5BH49WNHKbcArRlq3Qf8ti75rcqaxYsWti4zbMc/s1600/kj+wine+lable.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="218" data-original-width="373" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjJmrz4cWXf-JuTsmaJXwLKQ-eeRNOYXELJuJl5O69wUYDAyRN3zC52X8nbSn4dGvvyr0FGYZnnVXEYnXOvVn6yejwHNEBJ-7U8iv5BH49WNHKbcArRlq3Qf8ti75rcqaxYsWti4zbMc/s200/kj+wine+lable.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="200" /></a></div><div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">Your search begins at the bottle labels.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>The front label contains the tightly controlled, governmentally required information: producer name and address, vintage date, brand name or varietal designation, source of grapes, plus health warnings and other mandatory information.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>However, the back label is where you begin your search begins in earnest.</span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoG9XxaBcBYPlNqgAunNbigBus_zzxK19waloWLXD4E0f1NOy2-jhSSDxZhlNzZyslMse3q4ArgPsHTg1s_722aR8Tpiy5JLUEBVBttGge9HZqIqN1JYSQfRsywNugRENtM0dHJrdNH-Q/s1600/back+label2.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #473624; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="242" data-original-width="252" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoG9XxaBcBYPlNqgAunNbigBus_zzxK19waloWLXD4E0f1NOy2-jhSSDxZhlNzZyslMse3q4ArgPsHTg1s_722aR8Tpiy5JLUEBVBttGge9HZqIqN1JYSQfRsywNugRENtM0dHJrdNH-Q/s200/back+label2.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="200" /></a></div><div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">It typically contains info about the winery’s history, special mention of their estate vineyards that may have been sourced, vintage/weather highlights, palate-teasing aroma/flavor descriptors, and recommended food pairings. </span></div><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">Your next location to access is where the “meaty” stuff begins to be revealed: the producer’s Internet website (usually found on the back label). Once there, click the link for wines that are available for sale (Purchase, Shop, Acquire, etc.), and then click on the specific wine that interests you.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>It often provides specific vineyard practices, plus what special or unique winemaking routines were employed.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span><br /><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;"><br /></span><br /><div style="margin: 16px 0px 10.66px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielt0PlMHZfERUb-itVWZibFUQaEKhnH8IgHchybUotftzWHddOO3mZgjEUjQoxuFb2qJmKqLILSx1OrQc3PH9U0KW3hd59iLiwZYIyREFCoMFi7gfAY8RRv6O7Fqyhty5k4PlV56woKI/s1600/whole+clusters.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #473624; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="187" data-original-width="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielt0PlMHZfERUb-itVWZibFUQaEKhnH8IgHchybUotftzWHddOO3mZgjEUjQoxuFb2qJmKqLILSx1OrQc3PH9U0KW3hd59iLiwZYIyREFCoMFi7gfAY8RRv6O7Fqyhty5k4PlV56woKI/s1600/whole+clusters.jpg" style="border: 0px;" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">Details like the following, which I encourage you to research and understand, are often to be found here:100% varietal, or blended with other grapes (color, aroma, flavor); whole cluster fermentation (structure and complexity), or destemmed; stainless steel (fruity), or barrel fermentation (mouthfeel); new barrel aging (maximum oak) or <i>neutral</i> (minimal); malolactic fermentation (smoothness); <i>sur lie</i> <i>aging</i> (richness and silky texture); unfined and/or unfiltered (clarity). <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span><span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">Though not all-inclusive, the above typically reveals most relevant winemaking practices, and should help explain why that wine was so intriguing.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>However, if you’re as obsessive as I can occasionally be, there are a few more sources for you to explore.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>While still on the Internet, click on the winery’s link to <i>Trade</i> and/or <i>Media</i> information.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>There are occasionally marketing-oriented details not found above that distributors often utilize to promote the wine. </span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfppVbp6d1PzNqvilxUj2MNN8iP0pkxIqjAHy4g2GoyUxCA8yjPEmYgPRPFTN-37r6euekk2QZXQr_8ssCv4Faq42ufn4iXE_Nc_Dc796wGFIJxT3Y-xey8o3ZdJwH703IMfqq6o4PW6c/s1600/tasting+room1.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfppVbp6d1PzNqvilxUj2MNN8iP0pkxIqjAHy4g2GoyUxCA8yjPEmYgPRPFTN-37r6euekk2QZXQr_8ssCv4Faq42ufn4iXE_Nc_Dc796wGFIJxT3Y-xey8o3ZdJwH703IMfqq6o4PW6c/s1600/tasting+room1.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="242" data-original-width="233" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfppVbp6d1PzNqvilxUj2MNN8iP0pkxIqjAHy4g2GoyUxCA8yjPEmYgPRPFTN-37r6euekk2QZXQr_8ssCv4Faq42ufn4iXE_Nc_Dc796wGFIJxT3Y-xey8o3ZdJwH703IMfqq6o4PW6c/s200/tasting+room1.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="192" /></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfppVbp6d1PzNqvilxUj2MNN8iP0pkxIqjAHy4g2GoyUxCA8yjPEmYgPRPFTN-37r6euekk2QZXQr_8ssCv4Faq42ufn4iXE_Nc_Dc796wGFIJxT3Y-xey8o3ZdJwH703IMfqq6o4PW6c/s1600/tasting+room1.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfppVbp6d1PzNqvilxUj2MNN8iP0pkxIqjAHy4g2GoyUxCA8yjPEmYgPRPFTN-37r6euekk2QZXQr_8ssCv4Faq42ufn4iXE_Nc_Dc796wGFIJxT3Y-xey8o3ZdJwH703IMfqq6o4PW6c/s1600/tasting+room1.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfppVbp6d1PzNqvilxUj2MNN8iP0pkxIqjAHy4g2GoyUxCA8yjPEmYgPRPFTN-37r6euekk2QZXQr_8ssCv4Faq42ufn4iXE_Nc_Dc796wGFIJxT3Y-xey8o3ZdJwH703IMfqq6o4PW6c/s1600/tasting+room1.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br /><div style="margin: 16px 0px 10.66px;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;">Also, feel free to place a toll-free, 800 phone call to the winery’s Tasting Room.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>And lastly, if you still feel there is something “going on,” not otherwise disclosed, send an email to the Winemaker.<span style="margin: 0px;"> While these last two options may seem to be "over the top,"</span> both sources seem delighted to receive and respond to inquiries.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>(And why not?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>No different than receiving them during their winery tasting sessions.)</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFe5E8G4yEFnSOtZUMvLdQWXFEMKsVyNjxlpWvkAfDJhkzRM_cJW4uMQxIrL8YioV-P26jY465kItFZNvKI0aZ4UrrsTgBAqEOuklba7znQU8SHKBrjZqYgePajsFdhzpzgVpJknlPOr8/s1600/wine+bible.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #473624; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="361" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFe5E8G4yEFnSOtZUMvLdQWXFEMKsVyNjxlpWvkAfDJhkzRM_cJW4uMQxIrL8YioV-P26jY465kItFZNvKI0aZ4UrrsTgBAqEOuklba7znQU8SHKBrjZqYgePajsFdhzpzgVpJknlPOr8/s200/wine+bible.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="200" /></a></div><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.9733px; margin: 0px;"><b>In closing, implicit in the above is that you have a grasp on the basics of wine appreciation.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Notions of body style, acidity, tannins, sugar, structure and texture should already be familiar to you.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>If not, you should get up to speed on those and then transition to the routine outlined above. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Either way, good luck in your pursuit!<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>The more informed you become, the more enjoyable and interesting wine appreciation becomes. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></b></span></div>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-43760454232073849922023-11-05T14:55:00.000-08:002023-11-05T14:55:22.641-08:00Wine Wisdom in. Few Short Paragraphs<p><br /></p><p>The following first appeared in 2021. The principles are still valid</p><p><br /></p><p> <span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">One +of my first wine buddies characterized the pleasures of wine appreciation as a pursuit.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">There are different levels in that quest, and for many it ceases at “It tastes good!”</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Today’s article encourages you to go a few steps further to find out why.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt; mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Learn the grape. </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">The most important determinant of the way a wine looks, smells, tastes and feels is the underlying grape from which it is made.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each has its own level and style of aroma, acidity, tannins, dryness, and body. Check out Winefolly.com for those details.</span><br /><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;"> </span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGl3DVh0-6gCcyHUcY5i-rnCd6cS7wZqMHd6evzdesPwgfSn9q1d4lmRUer-WfzHhzrwsGZABJE5XZMVIczALPn8Hmn_8NRyk054849rf_xQbo_lE2Q1cLlIvvXM1Bzguv4tbwMMhrIy8/s1600/citrus.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="226" data-original-width="320" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGl3DVh0-6gCcyHUcY5i-rnCd6cS7wZqMHd6evzdesPwgfSn9q1d4lmRUer-WfzHhzrwsGZABJE5XZMVIczALPn8Hmn_8NRyk054849rf_xQbo_lE2Q1cLlIvvXM1Bzguv4tbwMMhrIy8/s200/citrus.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Acidity</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">. This is the “nervous system” of wine. Think citrus. <span style="background: repeat white; color: black;">Wines with too little acidity are flat, dull, or flabby; those with too much are lean, angular or tart; those that are balanced are “crisp,” giving the wine vitality and a succulent mouthfeel, plus a palate cleansing finish while dining. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Acidity is crucial in the anatomy of Structure. </span></span><br /><br /><b><span style="background: repeat white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Tannins. </span></b><span style="background: repeat white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Tannins are </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">the “backbone” of red wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Think over-steeped black tea. Wines with a low level are loose or open knit; those with too much are bitter or astringent; in between are well structured or refined tannins that give the wine a presence or shape on the palate and provide a pleasant, palate-cleansing finish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tannins are a vital component of Structure, and are a key element in a wine’s ability to age and improve.</span><br /><br /><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Dryness</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">. The level of sweetness in a wine speaks for itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Except for notable exceptions, the current state of affairs in wines with food is for them to be Dry—not sweet.</span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNmvJK8nK-T6Rcp-9jZ080GvSPdFR4UD9xR4eoDevBcLtVR4ZCx69mhyphenhyphenZi9naeBRFsIATJTOhFnuxP_fW06T3IBQPEIf4lzB9qjEovQSBz1ASWOpAxLSfAJIQ_W0bx3uScRsbPn6uso4U/s1600/heavy+cream2.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="173" data-original-width="242" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNmvJK8nK-T6Rcp-9jZ080GvSPdFR4UD9xR4eoDevBcLtVR4ZCx69mhyphenhyphenZi9naeBRFsIATJTOhFnuxP_fW06T3IBQPEIf4lzB9qjEovQSBz1ASWOpAxLSfAJIQ_W0bx3uScRsbPn6uso4U/s200/heavy+cream2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Body Style.</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Body relates to the impression or <i>weight of the wine</i> in your mouth, and is usually characterized as either light, medium or full, with hyphenated versions being the more common. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While alcohol levels account for much of this mouthfeel, other winemaker options also contribute.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTRNHB5FghybKHxtvc8K9FDCUHcnzIa878LwWeUK1VH7Md8MSPONdegsLGtLuoNgeoEE0z9kyjVTEcN5RcSchpmufAxiTqtIpxXvFl37Xsl2pzGvetEZCvCAL6Jv9RNK2n94Tr0AW8eZY/s1600/building+blocks3.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;">,</a></div><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Structure</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The notion of <i>Structure</i> is one you must wrap your head <i>and</i> palate around, for it tells you there’s something more than colorful liquid in your mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>All the elements in the previous paragraphs comprise the notion known as Structure.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They provide the anatomy or building blocks of wine that define how a wine looks, smells and tastes, and, quite importantly, <i>how it feels in your mouth</i>, and whether or not it is solidly structured and well balanced. </span><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyPhmp-Hy9x0zsYxc0RyNhcP-vAsvftybw7zEFeGeejxKMNIy2AfWzp2q0_N6CL4zKRT5qTl69xNnAAnMAtw9lDuc8PmnMfy7Pz1SGBr2AA8hQuo4rv3wpDMS0XPGZe4_3GmyCAU3ljeQ/s1600/tanks.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="318" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyPhmp-Hy9x0zsYxc0RyNhcP-vAsvftybw7zEFeGeejxKMNIy2AfWzp2q0_N6CL4zKRT5qTl69xNnAAnMAtw9lDuc8PmnMfy7Pz1SGBr2AA8hQuo4rv3wpDMS0XPGZe4_3GmyCAU3ljeQ/s200/tanks.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="margin-top: 12pt;"><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Stainless steel versus Oak</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wines are <i>matured and aged</i> in a number of different vessels, but these are the most common, with the former primarily used for whites and the latter for reds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sealed environment of stainless tanks produces fruity freshness, lively acidity, and aromas and flavors that clearly reflect the underlying grape. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Eq6W4Uys_aPpqmDiZCU2hqslMKT5Y4E_Wkq8t7-aNBQvqI2iy8ms1yFWPdQfAwyo-Yq4jWriZbbMcHzncTk2gsYQGCs68Qko-eEZYjHKI2uuet57ZyMa1_FA0jW_fAWnJse-DIMkQG8/s1600/oak+barrels.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="221" data-original-width="300" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Eq6W4Uys_aPpqmDiZCU2hqslMKT5Y4E_Wkq8t7-aNBQvqI2iy8ms1yFWPdQfAwyo-Yq4jWriZbbMcHzncTk2gsYQGCs68Qko-eEZYjHKI2uuet57ZyMa1_FA0jW_fAWnJse-DIMkQG8/s200/oak+barrels.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><div style="margin-top: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;"><b>Oak barrels</b> are primarily used for the fermentation, maturation and aging of red wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because they are porous, they impart aromas and flavors of the toasted wood, as well as permitting a carefully monitored evaporation (concentration).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>New oak flavors: vanilla, nuts, charred bread, mocha, chocolate, espresso and baking spices. Neutral oak (previously used) effect is far less, but like new, imparts a smooth, creamy aspect. </span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ84LjWBY7TIaQoS3sXVxT_XBmSBopG3hrHFDuK1kP0gHHrVv1FfUisR1cXAOMqkbkvlUfJWx46HHEPhDIG2aomT9yoHfvRlRyRyFxz_jFPO2qNnbFW9qcBzQ4rnIwsQlKoqswT9VbYoo/s1600/white+female+sniffer.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="248" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ84LjWBY7TIaQoS3sXVxT_XBmSBopG3hrHFDuK1kP0gHHrVv1FfUisR1cXAOMqkbkvlUfJWx46HHEPhDIG2aomT9yoHfvRlRyRyFxz_jFPO2qNnbFW9qcBzQ4rnIwsQlKoqswT9VbYoo/s200/white+female+sniffer.jpg" width="200" /></a></div><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Bringing it all together. </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Keeping the above aspects in mind, take your time in the Sip and Savor step, and hold a generous amount of wine in your mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Move it around so it hits all <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>areas of your tongue which react to wine’s main palatal qualities of sweetness, bitterness and juiciness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whether you spit or swallow, be attentive to the presence and level of those elements. Ponder that sip. Take another to confirm, and bring it all together. What is that wine revealing? </span><br /><br /><b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;">Finally.</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 19.973333px;"> Appealing and flavorsome qualities are what we all seek in a wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Accepting that outcome without further inquiry is one thing, but for those who occasionally are a bit more inquisitive, something more will come of it. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Enjoy.</span>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-84937366305533288912022-08-13T14:06:00.000-07:002022-08-13T14:06:40.759-07:00It's that time of year again!<p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 10pt;">As a longtime Rosé aficionado, I never expected the
pink stuff would be as widely accepted as it currently is. Two recent experiences
made this quite clear. The first, was at Napa’s Whole Food Market, where I noted
there were more than fifty different producers on the shelves, from both
foreign and domestic. Secondly, after that attention-getter, I browsed Wine.com,
one of the more thorough Internet sources for wines of all types and provenance,
to see what was currently available. You may not be surprised, but I was; there
were 450 Rosés listed.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 10pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">As you might expect, most of the offerings (170), came
from France, with California in second place at 150, with Italy and Spain next
with 21 each.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The tabulation continued
down to Hungary and a couple other countries with one each. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moreover, in addition to country, the web site
also offered the following sort options for those looking for something quite
specific: country subregion, specific vintage, latest price, recent rating, reviewer
(if any), bottle size, kosher, and closure type.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(I did take advantage of the sort option and
ordered four bottles from several Greek appellation and two from Italy.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">When I first started to enjoy the Pink stuff, one was
lucky to find anything other than California’s White Zinfandel, or Portugal’s <i>Lancers</i>
or <i>Mateus</i>, all of which were not the least bit dry; that is, not sweet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But all of that changed when my wife and I
got reality checks from France’s southern Rhone Valley, Provence, the Riviera,
as well as all coastal towns along our way to the Atlantic coast. The various Rosés
we enjoyed were fragrant, flavorsome, juicy and dry, which made them perfect
for the casual, mostly outdoor, Bistro food we were gulping down.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Back home, in the hopes of passing on my new found
awareness and enthusiasm, I began to write blog articles that covered most of the
then most vital aspects of the stuff: how it was NOT made (blending red wines
with white): how, in fact, it WAS made (direct press or <span style="background: white; color: #4d5156;">bleed off juice </span></span>); how it tasted
(dry, not sweet); how exceedingly food friendly it was; why it can and should be
enjoyed year round; why it did NOT need<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>95+ ratings from critics; and that it was reasonably priced (particularly
against Chardonnay). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Rosés from Provence have been, and are, the most
widely available in the USA, and so far, have the best advertising and
promotional programs. But that is changing as all winegrowers, foreign and domestic,
have an interest in selling something <i>today</i> that was bottled yesterday. Spain
has its <i>Rosado</i>, Italy has its <i>Rosato</i>, Germany has its Roséwein, <i>Vin
Gris</i> is found in other French appellations, and Napa is awash with Pinot
Noir based versions. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Provence’s Rosé style has been, for the most part, a
light bodied, fruit forward, juicy quaff that typically provided the background
music to light, alfresco fare; it was never intended to be center stage on the
dining table.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Other than a quick swirl
and sniff to ensure freshness and flavor, not much else has been asked of
it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Certainly, detailed tasting
assessments were never part of the program. But that is changing. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In recent Decanter magazine articles, there are
discussions as to which French appellation might emerge as the go-to source for
more complex, age-worthy Rosés. Deeper and darker styles, as well as oak enhanced/matured
versions are being introduced as “pale reds” to distinguish them from the
care-free, not-so-cerebral style that was first out of the gate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Italy, who I expect to give Provence a run for the
money (as it did with<i> Prosecco</i> in the Sparkling wine niche), has a
unique combination of regions/appellations, each with their own indigenous
grapes. With the varying and unique color/aroma/flavor profiles that each
possess, Italy will be able to weave a veritable spreadsheet of
location/grape/wine options for you to pair with your food of choice. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Lastly, it’s that time of year, the food is not heavy,
and the venue is often outdoors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Permit
me to suggest suspending your usual vino choices, and pick up a few Pinks from
your local retailer. Uncork them at an upcoming lunch or dinner, and imagine
you’re soaking up the sun on the French Riviera, the fabulous views from Italy’s
Cinque Terre, or the historic beauty of Spain’s Andalucia. It’s the next best
thing to being there. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-74642746051629798642022-06-18T10:34:00.000-07:002022-06-18T10:39:28.518-07:00Pursuing Wine Appreciation, Part2<p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">In my
previous post I described various roadmap markers encountered while travelling
the circuitous and open-ended road of Wine Appreciation.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">The starting point was understanding a wine’s
primary structural aspects, its building blocks, (acidity, sweetness, alcohol
and tannins), and how those, in turn, are determined by the underlying grapes
from which it is made. This was crucial inasmuch as American and most New World
wines are primarily labelled and distinguished by the underlying grape.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">But that
information was of limited assistance when I tried to understand how European
wines identified and differentiated themselves between countries, as well as
between regions of the same country. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
next offramp took me to the notion of Appellation: where a wine is produced, its
birthplace, its unique origins. Appellation is a promise of authenticity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You’re getting <i>The</i> <i>Real Thing</i>,
not a knockoff. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Involved enthusiasts are
also familiar with the underlying grapes, but that information is secondary to the
guarantee of its provenance.)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">That
alerted me to the realization that there was more to American wines than simply
knowing the underlying grapes. I doubled back to the American Viticultural Area
system (AVA). The AVA terroir-based system, inspired by Europe’s Appellation
system, is a combination of a wine’s origins, geographical peculiarities and the
underlying grape(s) from which it is made.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>All this leads wine buyers, you and me, (as well as producers) to the
challenge of differentiating identically labelled varietal wines from alternative
and/or competing AVAs. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">I could be
wrong, but my gut feel about casual, somewhat “with-it” wine drinkers, is that
most of us are primarily (if not totally) satisfied by one or two points of any
given wine’s characteristics. That oak-lavished, buttery Chardonnay or that
rich, ripe Cabernet fruit bomb delivers most of what we want and have come to expect
from them. Similarly, as a Sauvignon Blanc fan, all I usually I look for, and
am satisfied with, are the telltale lemon/lime/grapefruit aromas and flavors
coupled with a long, crisp, oak-free finish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">But having
said that, there are times when I, and maybe some of you, feel adventurous, and
get in the hunt for wines with special qualities and a unique birthplace. That search
for specificity begins with a peeling back of the various AVA, and Sub AVA,
layers. For example, a Pinot Noir with the all-inclusive, state-wide, California
AVA, should receive far less interest than, say, one labeled as Sonoma County. And
within that, one might look deeper to Sonoma Coast, and beyond that, to one
that could be Estate Bottled, or possible even one with an established, well
known Single Vineyard identify. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Estate
Bottled wines, and there are not many of them, <span style="background: white; color: #262626;">are made with grapes from the same location and are
controlled throughout the producer’s vineyard and winemaking process including
fermenting, aging and on-site bottling. </span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="background: white; color: #262626;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span>On
the other hand, </span></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Single Vineyard wines, and there are quite a few of those,
are distinguished by originating from a unique vineyard site, which the owner
or producer claims has very special qualities that are not, and cannot, be duplicated
by other producers anywhere else. (Think </span><i style="color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">Terroir</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">).</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;">It is here where producers set themselves
apart from competitors, and it is here where those in the hunt, should do the
cherry-picking.</span><span style="color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;">Finally, there’s no arguing about the benefits of an Estate
bottled wine, but there are some who feel that the unique aspects of Single
Vineyard wines are more marketing hype than true viticultural/vinicultural distinctions.
The pricey, Cult Club waiting lists of many Cabernet Sauvignons and Pinot Noirs tell
a different story.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In either case, good
hunting, proceed with caution, and be sure you can adequately assess what’s in
your stemware. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;"><span style="background: white; color: #262626; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-71051495137988090952022-04-08T10:58:00.000-07:002022-04-08T10:58:49.359-07:00The Pursuit of Wine Appreciation<p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">When I first decided to pursue the pleasures of Wine Appreciation,
it became apparent that it was far more complex than one friend’s advice, which
was as simple as ABC: “Always Buy Cabernet, Always Buy Chardonnay.” (He was
serious.) And while a number of wine drinkers I’m chummy with are still in that
paradigm, I found it too confining, too generic, and not the least bit fulfilling.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">But I needed a roadmap, something to guide me on how
to better understand wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The first
route was sorting out and comprehending each of wine’s underlying
components—acidity, sweetness, body (alcohol) and tannins. I soon realized that
each of those is determined by (drum roll please!) <i>the underlying grape from
which the wine is made</i>.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And once I “learned the grape(s),” I came to
understand why, say, a Merlot is unlike a Pinot Noir, which is unlike a Cabernet,
which is unlike a Grenache. And the same holds for Chardonnay versus, say,
Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling or Semillon. That was crucial, inasmuch as the
American and New World approach to labelling and distinguishing wines was, and
is, by varietal—the underlying grape.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">However, that was of limited help when trying to decode
how European wines differentiated themselves, not only between countries, but
between various regions within the same country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Experienced enthusiasts know the answer lies
in the notion of “Appellation,” which, among other viti and vinicultural
details, identifies a wine’s provenance or place of origin. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Back in “dem olden days,” Old World wine drinkers were
unaware (or likely didn’t care) about the varietal makeup, they simply wanted
to know if it was, say, an authentic St. Julien from Bordeaux, a Rioja from
Spain or a Chianti from Italy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In other
words, was it authentic, the “real thing?” The Appellation system was a method
of guaranteeing the wine was not a knockoff, but it ultimately also became a
marker of quality.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And, of course, subsequent off ramps and side trips
lead me to a few more discoveries about European wines. Some are categorized
and distinguished by length of aging time in bottle and barrel (Spain). Others are
distinguished by sweetness level (Germany). A select few are distinguished by the
“hierarchy of quality” within the appellation (France’s Bordeaux and Burgundy).
And most are additionally distinguished by the appellation’s underlying grapes.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">But that information made
it clear to me that simply “learning the grape(s) was not sufficient for closing
in on sources and quality levels of American wines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My U-turn took me to the notion of America’s
Viticultural Areas (AVAs), which, while not identical to, is a distinct nod to
Europe’s appellation system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In general, an AVA is a “designated wine region, with
unique geographic features, including distinctive and identifiable combinations
of soil, climate and local wine character.” As of this writing, there are 261
established AVAs in America. California has 143, and for you curious few, Napa
Valley has 16 distinct sub-AVAs. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">With about 800 wineries dispersed throughout Napa
Valley’s sixteen areas, wine buyers, and winegrowers alike, are faced with the
issue (and challenge) of differentiating wines; (Cabernet, for example) from
others located within Napa Valley, as well the remaining 127 California AVAs, (not
to mention all other American AVAs that offer Cabernet).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And so, one eventually may have to deal with quandaries
like these: Is, say, a Stags Leap AVA Cabernet really all that different from those
in Oak Knoll or Oakville AVAs?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or Howell
Mountain from Diamond Mountain? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or are Pinot
Noirs from several different AVAs all that unique and distinctive?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Well, yes … and no, depending how discriminating
your palate is. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">But assuming all that, what else can you, and a
winegrower, do to differentiate one Cabernet (or any other varietal) from
another; one that has the characteristics and qualities that you might desire?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alas, there are a few more keystrokes left in
this pursuit, so please stay tuned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-75580086314625009242022-02-09T11:33:00.000-08:002022-02-09T11:33:01.920-08:00Do you know the What and Why of your favorite wines?<p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">One of the vinous offramps I took a few years ago was
to expand the depth and breadth of my wine appreciation; more specifically, to
explore, and discover, more wines than were in my usual buying/drinking/cellaring
routine. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">I also nagged those of you who
were readers at the time, to enlarge the scope of your wine enjoyment by
introducing (and even challenging) your palate with new types and styles.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Coincidental with that, was my decision 1) to be far more
deliberate in my tasting assessments, and 2) to keep a record of them via
Instagram posts. Once registered, I began following (and learning from) wine
enthusiasts who posted their assessments, and many of those returned the favor
by following me. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In deciding to be more thorough and attentive to the details
underlying the components in the basic tasting protocol (<i>See, Swirl, Sniff,
Sip, Savor</i>), I came to an expanded appreciation of a wine in its entirety,
its overall style and structure, as well as its ultimate quality level. While
my previous tasting routines might have lasted a minute or two, the new more detailed
procedure occasionally took up to an hour, including note taking. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In the <i>See and Swirl</i> steps, for example, which
deals with color, but more accurately, the overall <i>appearance</i>, I studied
it for clarity, brightness, and engaging freshness. Did it make me eager to continue
the probe? Further, was the red color, say, ruby, garnet, purplish, or outright
black?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Translucent or opaque?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Was the white, very pale or some shade of gold
or straw?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Any green or other aspects?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Did either red or white display an oily or
leggy richness? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or was it loose and
watery?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">In the <i>Sniff and Sip</i> steps, did they confirm
what was implied in the <i>See </i>step? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Did the reds, for example, suggest Bing cherries,
blueberries, strawberries or cranberries? <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Were the whites fruity or floral?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Citrus driven? Or hinting melons, pears, or stone
fruit? And did either the red or white, seem rich and ripe?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or thin and lean?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Conventional wisdom from the professional critics is
to not rush the <i>Sniff </i>step; deliberate, repeated short sniffs with your
dominant nostril (Yes! It’s either your left or your right one!), will get you
started, then gradually move into a few probing, longer ones. Let your mind’s
eye capture a good, time-lapse picture. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And in the<i> Savor</i> step, which brings it all
together by assessing the wine’s structural impact on the palate, was its body style
light, medium, heavy or a combination?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Was
the acidity flat, crisp or tart? Were tannins present, and if so, were they dusty,
firm, refined, or coarse? And did it taste dry, off dry or sweet? And were each
of those components well balanced with each other, leading to a pleasing, lengthy
finish?</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Continuing on, was the overall mouthfeel or texture loose, firm or
tightly wound?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Was it refined and
elegant or rustic and common? Was the oak aging, if any, a gentle burnish or a mouthful
of buttery overkill? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Finally, by now you’ve figured out the above is a not-so-subtle,
check list for a more organized approach to wine tasting. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> And</span> whether you purchase via Wine
Clubs or some other recurring routine (producer, varietal, price, social media),
I would still encourage you to do your homework to fully understand and articulate, if possible, concisely in two or three short sentences, the essence of your current favorites. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-72239465353178740552021-12-13T15:23:00.000-08:002021-12-13T15:23:24.295-08:00Milk Shakes and Red Wine as Tender Loving Care.<p> </p><div class="post hentry uncustomized-post-template" itemprop="blogPost" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/BlogPosting" style="background-color: #fff3db; color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 8px 0px 24px;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name" style="color: #1b0431; font-size: 18.2px; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">I first posted this article in 2010, and those of you who were on the mailing list may recall it. It triggered many comments and memories. For you, and new readers as well, here's to fond recollections:</h3><div><br /></div><div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-3559788901046852034" itemprop="description articleBody"><br />As a youngster, my siblings and I lived in a small town in the coal mining region of southeastern Utah. Our nightly entertainment was radio programs like <em>The</em> <em>Shadow,</em> <em>The Lone Ranger</em> and <em>The Cisco Kid</em>. We also read books, solved 500 piece jigsaw puzzles, and played Gin Rummy. On Saturday afternoon, we wolfed down freshly, buttered popcorn while transfixed by movie westerns with Roy Rogers, Gene Autry and, for the real old time trivia buff, Gabby Hayes and Wallace Beery.<br /><br />Outside, in good weather, we explored the surrounding semi-desert countryside, or played “Cowboys and Indians,” “Marbles,” or "Mumbly Peg." At nightfall, nothing created more shrieking and mock trauma than “Hide and Seek.” When it snowed, we built bulbous snowmen, pummeled each other with snowballs, and took eye popping belly sleigh rides down the nearby, not so gentle slopes. It was pure Norman Rockwell stuff.<br /><br />And, of course, all those stressing activities brought with them the inevitable sore throat, high temperatures, or some other bed-confining ailment that required aspirins, mentholated chest rubs, and a little TLC. Tender Loving Care came in different forms—a steaming bowl of homemade chicken broth, a long tender embrace on Mama’s lap or another therapy that lingers most vividly in my emotional hard drives.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlrEeT3Ut6lYZrPYBOxHWPPC1Oyogogx6w802wdavDHWiVU8J_VJVKrJ2JX9v5Pcp0NUu1La8otck03PF29XmLdehQCVI31QA-xABgKs8Jz7FRpHQDcBT7RINP0XPp_eSQyHuUATF_DMM/s1600/milk+shake.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlrEeT3Ut6lYZrPYBOxHWPPC1Oyogogx6w802wdavDHWiVU8J_VJVKrJ2JX9v5Pcp0NUu1La8otck03PF29XmLdehQCVI31QA-xABgKs8Jz7FRpHQDcBT7RINP0XPp_eSQyHuUATF_DMM/s200/milk+shake.jpg" style="border: 0px;" width="200" /></a></div>My father would close his tiny shoe shine parlor, cross the street to the corner “soda fountain,” order a thick, chocolate malted milk shake, and then, brown paper bag in hand, trek the mile or so home to present his personal version of Tender Loving Care. Just the sight of the waxy <em>Dixie Cup</em> container coming out of the paper bag lifted my mood immediately, and after just a few draws on the straw, my temperature seemed to drop in synch with the level of the milk shake. Recovery was well under way long before the bottom of the <em>Dixie Cup</em> was visible.<br /><br />I recently spoke on the phone with my brother Stan, who, with his wife Lee, provided our aged mother a first class, heroic version of 24-hour care-giving for the last six years of her life. What brought the above Utah recollections to mind was my conversation with Stan about their dinner nights with Mama. Each night they served her a little wine with dinner—not much, maybe an ounce or two, but just enough to make dinnertime a little special. And just as chocolate, rather than vanilla, was my therapy of preference, red wine—not white—seemed to deliver the requisite impact for her. Pretty good palate I’d say.<br /><br />In any case, that dinner ritual was Tender Loving Care at its finest, and those few ounces effectively delivered much more than their basic purpose. They lifted her spirits, ensured that she would eat, reminded her of the sacramental aspects of wine, and overall, including aiding digestion, probably did more good than many medications.<br /><br />It’s interesting how a few of life’s necessities like food and drink can occasionally create a mindset and reaction that exceeds the properties of the underlying ingredients. That milk shake was far more than liquefied ice cream—it had magical, restorative powers. So too with those few ounces of red wine for my Mother. Both became, in a very real sense, far more than mere beverages. Special moments like that can happen—not very often—but they can happen. Here's hoping you have a few of them in the coming New Year.<div style="clear: both;"></div></div><div class="post-footer" style="border-top: 1px solid rgb(191, 177, 134); font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 9.62px; padding-top: 6px;"><div class="post-footer-line post-footer-line-1"><br /></div><div class="post-footer-line post-footer-line-3"><span class="post-location"></span></div></div></div><div class="comments" id="comments" style="background-color: #fff3db; clear: both; color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-top: 10px;"><a name="comments"></a><h4 style="font-size: 15.6px; font-weight: normal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;"><br /></h4><div class="comments-content" style="margin-bottom: 16px;"><div id="comment-holder"><div class="comment-thread toplevel-thread" style="margin: 8px 0px;"><ol id="top-ra" style="list-style-type: none; padding: 0px;"><li class="comment" id="c450945218110438404" style="margin-bottom: 16px; padding-bottom: 8px; padding-top: 16px;"><div class="comment-block" style="margin-left: 48px; position: relative;"><br /></div></li><li class="comment" id="c5466625463190159692" style="margin-bottom: 16px; padding-bottom: 8px;"><div class="comment-block" style="margin-left: 48px; position: relative;"><p class="comment-content" style="margin: 0px 0px 8px; padding: 0px; text-align: justify;"><br /></p></div><div class="comment-replies" style="margin-left: 36px; margin-top: 1em;"></div><div class="comment-replybox-single" id="c5466625463190159692-ce" style="margin-left: 48px; margin-top: 5px;"></div></li><li class="comment" id="c2546781284136216746" style="margin-bottom: 16px; padding-bottom: 8px;"><div class="avatar-image-container" style="float: left; max-height: 36px; overflow: hidden; width: 36px;"><img alt="" src="http://resources.blogblog.com/img/blank.gif" style="border: 0px; max-width: 36px;" /></div></li><li class="comment" id="c5406675655547067019" style="border-bottom: 0px; margin-bottom: 16px; padding-bottom: 0px;"><div class="comment-replies" style="margin-left: 36px; margin-top: 1em;"></div><div class="comment-replybox-single" id="c5406675655547067019-ce" style="margin-left: 48px; margin-top: 5px;"></div></li></ol><div class="comment-replybox-thread" id="top-ce" style="margin-top: 5px;"><iframe allowtransparency="true" class="blogger-iframe-colorize blogger-comment-from-post" data-resized="true" frameborder="0" height="193px" id="comment-editor" name="comment-editor" src="https://www.blogger.com/comment-iframe.g?blogID=1163186080611724978&postID=3559788901046852034&blogspotRpcToken=6998481#%7B%22color%22:%22rgb(41,%2048,%2059)%22,%22backgroundColor%22:%22rgb(255,%20243,%20219)%22,%22unvisitedLinkColor%22:%22rgb(71,%2054,%2036)%22,%22fontFamily%22:%22Georgia,%20%5C%22Times%20New%20Roman%5C%22,%20sans-serif%22%7D" style="display: block;" width="100%"></iframe></div></div></div></div></div>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-62092601176235673282021-10-15T17:00:00.000-07:002021-10-15T17:00:09.466-07:00Verities from wine tasting classes. <p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Depending on how long you’ve been swirling and
spilling, there are times when you have to deal with advice offered in a wine
tasting class. You can accept it as truth, reject it as myth, or wait until you
have confirmation of either.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Of course, I jest in the first sentence above about
spilling. But I did, in fact, reject a class moderator’s claim that if you
weren’t spilling it on yourself or elsewhere, then you weren’t aggressive
enough, and would never unleash those otherworldly, underlying aromas and
flavors. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And I also must acknowledge
that I have stained fine wooden table tops, baptized exquisite handmade
tablecloths and napkins, soiled irreplaceable Persian carpets, as well as adding
new, semi-floral designs to my silkenTommy Bahama shirts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Swirl vigorously folks! <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In large-group, multi-wine tasting classes of old, to quickly
learn the basics of color, aroma and flavor, we were advised to bring our own,
but correctly styled stemware. Not costly fine crystal, mind you, just anything
reasonably priced, and tulip-shaped. An economical six-pack from Macy’s worked
adequately, particularly in a horizontal tasting of several types
simultaneously.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were not unlike the
generic looking INAO tasting glass, the original, “must have” tasting glass
recommended by that era’s industry professionals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">But the Riedel Wine Glass Company in Austria upped the
ante, when it found (and created) a need of distinct stemware shapes for each
major varietal and/or appellation. Several of the well known wine critics
quickly approved of them, as did many of the world class wine producers here
and abroad.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As an eager Newbie wanting
to be “with it,” I purchased a few for my budding Bordeaux/Cabernet collection
and added another style for my California Pinot Noirs. And even though my
interest was moving rapidly to other appellations and varietals, I had an
attack of common sense, and limited my purchases to those two styles.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">That mindset was fleeting, however, for as a Napa
resident, I have augmented my stemware supply with various winery-specific and
restaurant-specific glasses as well. And I have discovered, not unsurprisingly,
that all are more than reliable for my periodic Instagram postings, as well as
other attentive tasting routines. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Fast forward to now.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With their ongoing stylistic updates, Riedel continues to introduce new designs
and new price points.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Have wines
changed that much?) <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Meanwhile, numerous
wine critics and Master Sommeliers have jumped into the stemware arena, and are
marketing their own proprietary brands, which they contend is the latest state
of the art (organoleptically speaking) for wine assessment and appreciation. Choose
carefully.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-top: 12.0pt;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Another relevant wine
class topic from years ago, was from a packed CIA tasting in San Francisco which
featured the exceptional wines from the Trimbach Family of France’s, storybook Alsace
region. We were introduced to their current releases, and for several of them,
Mr. Trimbach added, “While this is quite good now, we feel it will be even
better in several years.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Being a slow-mo
learner, I did not immediately connect the dots and heed his unspoken advice to
buy several bottles; some to enjoy now, and some later when they would evolve
into something more complex and interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Newsletters from importer Kermit Lynch were far more explicit in that
regard).<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Aficionados of Trimbach’s wines know, for the most
part, they are rather exuberant in their youth, typically with high levels of
acidity that can challenge inexperienced palates. With time, aka aging, the
acidity settles down to a flavorsome and gentle elegance. This is also the case
for other world-class whites like Chablis, White Burgundy, and Greece’s
Assyrtiko (Santorini).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Sangiovese
enthusiasts know acidity awareness also applies to the various appellations in Italy’s
Tuscany region, with the added dimension of tannins!)<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And all of this, in closing, leads to the nearly-rhetorical
question, “Are older wines better than young ones?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All wines age; some decline and deteriorate, while
others evolve into entirely different, but engaging profiles of aroma, flavor
and texture. The real question is, “Which wines improve with aging, and
why?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stay tuned. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-79234546880884864002021-08-17T09:30:00.000-07:002021-08-17T09:30:40.284-07:00Thoughts while sniffing and sipping. <p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">While swirling, sniffing, and sipping, I'm typically on the lookout for a few positive qualities. But I wonder if you possibly share my priorities? For example, what
quality or characteristic is most important when you’re enjoying
or otherwise attentively tasting a wine?</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">If you’re thinking “smooth” or “tastes good,” you
are likely a newbie or a wine drinker who is not particularly "into wine"; that is, one who feels that wine is simply a beverage, nothing special, and definitely not an
aesthetic object; and one who typically stays in his/her comfort zone by purchasing
the same few wines (producers and/or varietals) most of the time. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">A smooth wine is one with low acidity (mainly in whites, but also in reds), or low or nonexistent tannins (primarily in reds). It is soft, fruit
forward, often one dimensional, and usually displays a perceptible and engaging
touch of sweetness, and a good helping of mouth-coating, spicy oak. This type and style of wine seldom offends, and it
occupies quite a few shelves in grocery stores. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Sidebar: What brought this topic to mind was recently being
nagged into submission by a friend to taste (and agree) with him that a red wine
discovery of his was far better than my original, (untasted), negative opinion
was. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">At the time, I advised him his new find had two strikes against it; first, it
was Petite Sirah (not one of my favorites), and second, it was from a hot
weather CA region. As such, I had few, if any, positive observations. Nevertheless, I relented, told him to bring it, and proposed we serve
it with that night’s roasted Rack of Lamb dinner. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">While waiting for the meat thermometer to hit 135
degrees, I uncorked the bottle and poured us several ounces each. See, swirl, sniff, sip. The color was black as motor oil, with an
equivalent, viscous texture. Lightly aromatic, it was rich, ripe and slippery smooth,
with nary a feather from the “tail of the peacock.” That is, absolutely no finish. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">But it was endowed with enough smooth, mouth coating, fruity
sweetness to make my friend’s face light up with near orgasmic joy. He loved it.
But rather than explain why I did not, and risk offending him a second time, I conceded
it was better than I expected, and felt it would pair well with the lamb.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Back to the opening question: If you answered “balance” or “structure,” you’re
definitely “into wine,” and belong in that narrow market segment that
Constellation Brands research identifies as curious and committed “wine enthusiasts.”</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">If you also mentioned “complexity,” you're adventurous as well. While occasionally available at grocery stores, wines with these qualities
are most often found at quality retail wine stores and/or from
their Internet site, or from Internet-only companies like
Wine.com or SommSelect, JJ Buckley, WineAccess and Benchmark, to name a few.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Structure is the means and
vehicle by which a wine achieves its impact on your palate. There is, or should be, a sense of vitality
in the mouth and on the palate. The components which create that impression
are alcohol (body), acidity, tannins, residual sugar (sweetness). Wines with
good structure will have all four elements, the essential building blocks, harmoniously integrated, without any one dominating the others. They
are Balanced. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And depending on how closely you read the above Petite Sirah description, it should be clear, that even though colorful,
somewhat aromatic and flavorful, it was loosely structured, and not
particularly well balanced; however, not so unbalanced as to warrant terminal, roto-rooter
sentencing. It was a “drink now” wine that aimed to please, but will not improve with aging. It has only one direction to travel. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">However, and in a more positive perspective, while I’m
not a fan of smooth-style wines, they do serve to welcome newbies, who
eventually might feel the urge to experience something with a bit more character
and complexity. But for those of you who
are still “I know what I like, and I drink what I like,” smooth-style drinkers, isn’t
it time to get a bit reckless and break out of that comfort zone? There are some extraordinarily interesting wines out there. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />
<br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">
</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"> <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">While swirling, sniffing, and sipping, I typically am
on the lookout for a few positive qualities. But I wonder how many of you might
share my priorities?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, what
quality or characteristic is most or very important to you when you’re enjoying
or otherwise attentively tasting a wine? <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">If you’re thinking “smooth” or “tastes good,” then you
are likely a newbie or a wine drinker who is “not into” wine; that is, one who
tacitly believes that wine is nothing particularly special; definitely not an
aesthetic object; and one who typically stays in his/her comfort zone by purchasing
the same few wines (producers and/or varietals) most of the time. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">A smooth wine is one with low acidity (primarily in a
whites), or low or nonexistent tannins (primarily in a reds). It is soft, fruit
forward, often one dimensional, and usually displays a perceptible and engaging
touch of sweetness, and/or a good lashing of spicy oak.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This type of wine seldom offends, and it
occupies quite a few shelves in grocery stores. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Sidebar: What brought this topic to mind was recently being
nagged into submission by a friend to taste (and agree) with him that a red wine
discovery of his was far better than my original, untasted, negative opinion
was. I originally told him his new find had two strikes against it; first, it
was Petite Sirah (not one of my favorites), and second, it was from a hot
weather CA region. But I relented, told him to bring it, and suggested we serve
it with that night’s roasted Rack of Lamb dinner. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">While waiting for the meat thermometer to hit 135
degrees, I uncorked the bottle and poured us several ounces each. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>See, swirl, sniff, sip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The color was black as motor oil, with an
equivalent, viscous texture. Lightly aromatic, it was rich, ripe and slippery smooth,
with nary a feather from the “tail of the peacock.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That is, absolutely no finish. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">But it was endowed with enough smooth, mouth coating, fruity
sweetness to make my friend’s face light up with near orgasmic joy. He loved it.
But rather than explain why I did not, and risk offending him a second time, I conceded
it was better than I expected, and felt it would pair well with the lamb.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Back to the opening question: <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If you answered “balance” or “structure,” you’re
clearly “into wine,” and belong in that narrow market segment that
Constellation Brands research identifies as curious and committed “wine enthusiasts.”
If you also mentioned “complexity,” you clearly have spent some serious time swirling
and sniffing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wines with these qualities
are typically available directly at quality retail wine stores and/or from
their Internet site, or from other companies who only sell on the Internet like
Wine.com or SommSelect, JJ Buckley, WineAccess and Benchmark, to name a few. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Structure, as you may or should know, is the means, and
level, by which a wine achieves its impact on your palate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is, or should be, a sense of vitality
in the mouth, not some lifeless, colorful liquid.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The components which create that impression
are alcohol (body), acidity, tannins, residual sugar (sweetness). Wines with
good structure will have all four elements integrated, without any one
overweighting the others. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That is, they
are Balanced.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And depending on how closely you read the description
of the above Petite Sirah, it should be clear, that even though being colorful,
somewhat aromatic and flavorful, it was quite loosely structured, and not
particularly well balanced, but, overall, not so much as to warrant roto-rooter
sentencing. It was a “drink now” wine that aimed to please, but will not
improve with aging. It has only one direction to travel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">However, and in a more positive perspective, while I’m
not a fan of smooth-style wines, they do serve to welcome newbies, who
eventually might feel the urge to experience something with a bit more character
and complexity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But for those of you who
are “I know what I like, and I drink what I like,” smooth-style drinkers, isn’t
it time to get a bit reckless and break out of that comfort zone?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br />
<br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
<!--[endif]--><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-91300139518509620472021-07-06T14:57:00.001-07:002021-07-06T14:57:50.503-07:00Things are changing in Bordeaux. <p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The red wines of Bordeaux were my first love.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Initially, because of Hugh Johnson, one of
the best (if not the best) wine writers of the past forty plus years, and
secondly because of Robert M. Parker, who created the 100 point rating system. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Johnson stirred my interest (in his first book titled <i>Wine</i>) when he
described Bordeaux wines, quite simply, as being “beautiful,” much like great
art or mood-moving music. And Parker completed the attention grab with his
effusively written, bi-monthly wine reviews, particularly the 1982 Bordeaux critique.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">But my heart sank when I saw this headline in a recent
Decanter magazine article: “Bordeaux gives the go ahead for new grapes.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because of the inexorable march of global
warming, France’s national appellation body is looking to six new grapes, (four
red, two white) “to mitigate the impact of climate change without diluting the
identity of Bordeaux wines.”<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Bordeaux aficionados know that the five main red grapes
that underlie the various, and stylistically different appellations (as well as
the individual Chateaux) are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit
Verdot and Malbec. I may be overreacting, but </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">the thought of messing with those
grapes, and potentially altering the aromas, flavors and overall outcome is a
bit distressing.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Nevertheless, it’s important to note that, as Bob
Dylan has alerted us, “The Times They Are a-Changin’,” and I, like others must
move on. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My Internet surfing reveals
that stud</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">ies and research began ten years before announcing the new grapes.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">It also included viticultural changes like
limiting leaf thinning, reducing plant density, delayed pruning, and night
harvesting. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">It was only a matter of time
before the vinicultural modifications were introduced.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The new four red varieties selected are Touriga
Nacional, Castets, Arinarnoa and Marselan. The first is a well known Port based
variety, and the last is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache Noir
that is selling well in China. The middle two are obscure, dark skinned, French
varieties.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The two white varieties
selected were Portugal’s Alvarinho and Lilorila. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">All were selected for their solid structure, strong
aromatics, high acidity and ability to resist certain vine diseases.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, this is not a wholesale takeover; they
are limited to ten percent of the final blend, and should represent no more
than five percent of vineyard plantings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In a sense, these are new options in the winemaker’s toolbox.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">But unlike Burgundy, with its strict limitations,
Bordeaux is a flexible blend, which, in addition to other winemaking options,
provides a great deal of latitude in crafting the final mix. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much like New World labelling laws, France’s
do not require complete disclosure of all grapes used in the final blend. The
“tweaking,” as it were, will go unnoticed by most wine drinkers. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">However, it would be disingenuous of me to imply that
the Bordeaux of today is identical to the Bordeaux of yesteryear, for it is
not.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When Bordeaux was sending shiploads
of wine in the 1300s to England, it was nothing more than a simple, Rose-like quaff
from grapes of unknown lineage and provenance. The French called it Clairete,
and it evolved to Claret for the British, where it still is their favored term
for Bordeaux. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Finally, while Bordeaux is no longer the focus of my
purchasing strategy, I still have a select few bottles from various vintages. Some
are on their plateau of maturity; they have been a joy to sniff, sip and
savor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Others, needing a bit more shelf
time, will handsomely repay my patience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They too will evolve into suave and elegant pours, and, yes, (if I may
pilfer the descriptor), into something quite beautiful.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span face=""Arial",sans-serif" style="background: white; color: #404040; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p><br /><p></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-14002309873148164012021-05-20T13:56:00.000-07:002021-05-20T13:56:50.512-07:00Minerality, an outdated update.<p><br /></p><p>I first wrote about the nebulous wine descriptor Minerality in May of 2011. And so, I felt it was time for an update, thinking that much has been discovered, and new insights have clarified the subject for wine enthusiasts. But, alas, not so. Its definition and characteristics are still being variously described and utilized. </p><p>The only thing that is quite clear, is that wine critics, critic-wannabes and wine journalists are routinely using Minerality as a key characteristic to describe virtually any type of wine, and how it transcends or otherwise differentiates it from the typical, uninspiring components of acidity, tannins, sugar, and alcohol. With that in mind, here is an outdated update, as current as it gets: </p><p><br /></p><div class="date-posts" style="background-color: #fff3db; color: #29303b; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><div class="post-outer"><div class="post hentry uncustomized-post-template" itemprop="blogPost" itemscope="itemscope" itemtype="http://schema.org/BlogPosting" style="margin: 8px 0px 24px;"><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-2038322229935037520" itemprop="description articleBody"><div style="border-color: initial; border-style: none; border-width: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVgW3lGC4TKNWfwAeONiS2koYD6mGpiarj4o9jCd-pzea201GkU-SmnWp2Fzy0gw7xwkBufkGJT1aM1VpL6viLNs-r8idoWlSW7L4IA7-38IDjBD2SoXldKJgsAZ_pe2Btm0bj8asydCY/s1600/stony_soil+II.jpg" style="clear: right; color: #473624; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>When I first attended wine tasting classes, it was not unusual to hear the phrase <em>gout de terroir</em> (goo de tare-wahr — <em>taste of the soil</em>) ascribed to the wines that we were evalu,ating. The concept seemed esoteric and elusive, and it was not uncommon to hear a chortle or two when the French phrase was invoked by the class moderator.</div><div style="border-color: initial; border-style: none; border-width: medium;"><br /></div>For whatever reason, possibly because <em>tasting dirt</em> isn’t very compelling, <em>gout de terroir</em> is seldom referred to by today’s wine critics. It seems to have morphed into, or otherwise been replaced by, something quite different and even more elusive: <em>minerality</em>. Wine journalists originally assigned the descriptor to unoaked, high-acid white wines which were perceived as having soil-based, stony flavors, vibrant earthy touches and steely streaks of distinctiveness. </div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-2038322229935037520" itemprop="description articleBody"><br /></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-2038322229935037520" itemprop="description articleBody">For a while, it seemed that the white wines of Alsace, Loire, Germany and Burgundy were the few beneficiaries of this ethereal quality. But of late, I note that New World reds and whites, as well as Old World reds, are also now being lauded for having palate-pleasing touches of <em>minerality</em>.<br /><br />For years, traditional wine tasting metaphors relied upon flowers and fruits and how they were perceived in the aromas and flavors of wine. Ann C. Nobel of U.C. Davis pulled those and other elements together with her <em>Wine Aroma</em> <em>Wheel</em> that categorized them into twelve major categories. It greatly facilitated and standardized much of the subjective terminology that professionals utilized.</div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-2038322229935037520" itemprop="description articleBody"><br /></div><div class="post-body entry-content" id="post-body-2038322229935037520" itemprop="description articleBody"> And while she included terms like chemical, woody and earthy, <em>minerality</em> was missing from the wheel. When asked <em>why </em>by others, she answered, “Minerality is a concept which could never be consistently defined in words or physical standards. If someone could come up with a stone or metallic solution that had an aroma that could be used to define minerality, it could be on the wheel.”<br /><br />While it is true that wine has many mineral components, geologists and scientists remain unconvinced that wine can effectively reflect any of them. However, notwithstanding science, many well-known winemakers and producers—those who live and die on the land—steadfastly defend the notion that wine echoes its life-giving, nutritional sources.<br /><br />So what is that earthy element in our stemware, and how can one best comprehend it? Are geologic elements migrating from the soil into the vine’s root system and upwards into the grapes? Or is there a vague, vine-based sensory quality that flicks the palate with crisp, fleeting sensations? Or could it be that it is an indistinct but integral part of a wine’s acidity?<br /><br />Irrespective of those speculations, doesn’t it seem rock-solid reasonable, that a wine’s make up has a vibrant core, a buoyant underpinning, a subtle but perceptible personality nuance that has nothing to do with aromas of flowers or flavors of fruit . . . which emits a sign of its geologic distinctiveness? Mystical to be sure, but one worth pondering tonight over a glass of Sancerre.<br /><br />Finally, and on a very personal note, even if it’s difficult to define or describe, <em>minerality</em> may have clarified why I’m partial to white wines, and many reds, that have no oak or other winemaker intrusions into their structure. Such wines are unaltered by wood, vanilla, butter or other man-made recipes for style and flavor enhancement. They have a fresh, unfettered, natural vitality quite apart from the wine’s defining varietal character. I really find them quite revealing and engaging.</div></div></div></div>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-65770819821345419382021-03-27T14:13:00.000-07:002021-03-27T14:13:20.876-07:00 Rosé. Review and update.<p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">I was a </span><a name="_Hlk67493667" style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> enthusiast long before I first promoted
them it in a 2001 article.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">In the
mid/late 1990s, when White Zinfandel was cashing in big, and Portuguese
imports, Lancers and Mateus, were delivering a similar sugary profile, my wife
Helga and I made trips to Germany, France and Italy. We were taken aback by
Germany’s </span><i style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Weissherbs</i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">t, France’s </span><i style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Vin Gris</i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">, and Italy’s </span><i style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Rosato</i><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">.
The surprise?</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">They were Dry. Bone dry. And
not sweet, like the aforementioned.</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The recognition of <i>what authentic <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span> was really like</i>,
motivated me, initially, to start nagging my friends, and secondarily, to
pontificate to those who stumbled upon my articles. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In dinner gatherings, so as not to see what I
was pouring, I pleaded with them to close their eyes, taste and evaluate, and
then take a look at what they enjoyed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One
friend offered, “Yea, it tastes fine, but I just can’t see myself holding a
glass of pink wine.” <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In the 2001 article, (the first of many), I preached
that while <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosés</span> in the USA
were the disrespected Rodney Dangerfield of Wines, the residents of Southern
France, Italy and Spain “have been enjoying the juice—forever it seems—as their
standard summertime quaff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Their <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span>s are bone dry and have much
more character and complexity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can’t we
learn something from them?” <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In subsequent articles, I decided rather than preaching,
that informing/educating might be more effective in convincing readers of <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé’s merits</span>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I explained they were not the product of
blending “characterless whites with mediocre reds.” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No, with a few exceptions, they were made from
quality red grapes, much like red wine was made, except the length of time the
skins were macerating was hours, rather than days or weeks. These were wines of
intent, not fermentation accidents. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The defining moment for <a name="_Hlk67561131"><span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span></a><span style="background: white; color: #111111;">s</span> occurred when they finally achieved national attention
and recognition with the very splashy front page (and articles) of the <i>Wine
Spectator</i> May 31, 2007 issue. Imagining that I actually had something to do
with this breakthrough, I wrote, “My flaming haired girlfriend of Summer is on
the frontpage of a national magazine!” The days of <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé’s</span> mistaken identity were over.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No, they were not sweet, and White Zin
drinkers were not being misled about them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I crowed, “Put away your Riedel stemware for the Summer and go for the
Pink stuff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tumblers will do.”<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">As cool weather cycled in, I next encouraged readers
not to ignore or abandon <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span>
in Winter.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They were not meant to simply
be summertime alfresco pours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>If one can
drink and enjoy white wines in wintertime, why not <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span> as well?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Also, <i>Wine Spectator</i> continued to
publish tastings of releases from around the globe as did the San Francisco
Chronicle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sales of <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span> continued to surge. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">But even though my flaming haired girlfriend finally received
the respect that I was hoping for, I got a bit grumpy that competitive tastings
were being advertised.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Why?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I never considered <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span> as a “cerebral wine,” one that needed its
structural aspects to be dissected and discussed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was always background music to the food
and context of the moment. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Enjoy it, don’t
analyze it.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">However, and lastly, as I continue to sample and enjoy
the ever-increasing number of choices in the marketplace, I have come to accept
they are no longer just simple, quaffable pours. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span>,
Pink, Light Reds, or however they might be described and/or categorized, are in
fact far more extensive in style. structure and complexity than I originally experienced
and wrote about. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And guess what, even
though I thought this might be my last article on <span style="background: white; color: #111111;">Rosé</span>, it appears I may have a few more keystrokes left
on this topic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cheers!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br style="mso-special-character: line-break;" />
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-30450621849000157302021-02-01T14:35:00.000-08:002021-02-01T14:35:09.149-08:00Make Yourself Special, Not the Bottle!<div><br /></div>In my most recent posting I proposed, given the Covid19 lockdown effect on our lives, that we be a bit more self-indulgent when enjoying the little things in life. Little things like wine . . . and food. In addition to uncorking that “special bottle” that’s been patiently waiting to be appreciated, I suggested that you upgrade your wine philosophy (and self-worth) to include higher quality wines. That is, make yourself special, not the bottle. <div><br /></div><div> </div><div>And so, I’m offering below a few time-worn ideas and advisories that hopefully will enhance your level of wine appreciation. You may be aware of these, or occasionally even employ them, but either way, just consider them friendly reminders, or at worst, an encouragement to make your wine experience a bit more fulfilling. <div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>First, is the “thirty-minute rule.” For optimum enjoyment, pull whites from the fridge thirty minutes before serving. Also, for countertop or otherwise, poorly stored reds (and whites), pop them into fridge for thirty and then uncork. Implicit in this routine is that, YES, wines do reveal their best qualities at certain temperatures. Catatonically cold whites and tepid reds simply do not reflect their best qualities of aroma, flavor or finish. (Your own trial comparations, before and after, will confirm the verity of this advice.) </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Second, dust off those underused decanters and put them to use for worthwhile reds. A minimum of thirty minutes aeration brightens aromas and flavors. Reds older than, say, five years or so, will reward you with their liberation from cork and bottle confinement. And further, a decanter full of wine, and a candle or two, always makes dinnertime a bit more special. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Third, besides upping the quality of your current wine consumption, consider taking the long view, and set aside a few quality reds and whites to age and evolve for several years. (Hopefully in a temperature-controlled environment.) Large scaled reds and high acid whites will settle down, soften and develop into elegant and savory pours. If you’re unsure or insecure about which wines benefit from aging, your local wine retailer is the place to go. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Fourth, even though it’s cool, winter weather, Rosé wines can be and are reliable workhorses in food and wine combinations, particularly after they warm up in the stemware (or taken out of the fridge, like whites for thirty minutes). Also, with many now enhanced with neutral oak, and/or enjoying a long soak on the skins, they have the added dimension of structure and complexity which simple, alfresco pours don’t have. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Fifth, make changes to your standard food and wine pairings. Also, consider a comparative food and wine dinner/tasting by pouring two very different wines. Just keep in mind the primary flavors (and structure) of the food, and compare and/or contrast with the flavors and structures of the wines. Red wines can, and do, work with fish; and whites can pair well with certain herbed and spiced meats. It all depends on the herbs, spices, condiments and sauces. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Sixth, Sparkling wines need not be enjoyed only during celebrations or special occasions. They’re whites with an extra shot of vitality, and they easily can be substituted at dinner time for your routine dry, still whites. In fact, their acidity often makes them more food friendly than vanilla-laden Chardonnays and other whites that have been oak-aged. Cava from Spain, Prosecco from Italy and many California Sparklers are veritable bargains, and shouldn’t be overlooked. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>And lastly, THINK while you drink and eat. Don’t let life’s little pleasures slide by heedlessly unaware of the inherent joy in front of you. Sniff that cup of coffee. Savor that cup of Assam tea. Pay attention to the specific ingredients in the food on your plate (whether at home or dining out). And, of course, take the holistic view of the wine in your stemware; its overall structure and how the different components (acidity, tannins, sugar, alcohol) come together. Enjoy your life, stay safe and healthy, and have a great 2021!</div></div>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-57207889949581256722020-12-05T11:11:00.001-08:002020-12-05T12:37:00.066-08:00A Modest Proposal.<div><br /></div>The on again, off again Covid-19 virus lockdowns in 2020 caused enormous damage—financial, emotional, and spiritual—to families and businesses alike. And for those of us residing in Napa Valley, we also had to spontaneously adjust our life and lifestyle to the unpredictable power outages and deadly wildfires that delivered the same trifecta of effects, but to an even greater effect. <div><br /></div><div>No doubt, anyone who reads this can add their own experience to how nasty 2020 was for them. And for those poor souls who had to bear the unspeakable indignities and inconveniences of being socially distant at backyard cocktail parties and dinners, or picking up curbside dinners at their favorite, near-failing restaurants, or watching their ever-growing hair take on a stylish, new color and look, I would like to make a modest proposal for the New Year that I hope will help leave those unpleasant experiences behind, and get you moving forward positively.</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">My proposal has its roots in an article from the wine writing team of Dorothy Gaiter and John Beecher, who co-authored the weekly wine column in the <i>Wall Street Journal</i> for twelve years until December 25, 2009. While their articles were always informative and interesting, their lasting contribution to wine literature is their annual column known as <i>Open That Bottle Night</i>.</div><div><br /></div><div>Once a year, starting in 1999, they proposed uncorking and enjoying that dusty, sequestered bottle, (which nearly everyone has), and which memorialized special events like births, marriage, etc. There’s much more to the what and why of that story: Archives, February 13, 2012. </div><div><br /></div><div>To overcome the 2020 blues and kick start 2021, I’m not only reminding you to liberate that special bottle from its hiding place, I’m proposing a bit more: Don’t open only that one bottle, uncork many others, (especially new and different ones) throughout the year. <i>Make yourself special, not the bottle.</i></div><div><br /></div><div>And for those few who have not stored any memorialized bottles, how about your unofficial Bucket List —those wines that you’ve wanted to experience, but never got around to buying? It’s time to go out and buy a few of them, even if they’re a tad north of your customary price cutoff. This is not the time for delayed gratification; 2020 already gave us a generous helping of that. </div><div><br /></div><div>Moreover, I’m not implying that you restrict yourself to older vintages. You should consider recent vintages of, say, highly rated Cabernets, Chardonnays, or some of the well-known Proprietary blends. Also, if you’re informed about the appellations of Spain or Italy, there are many high quality options that are veritable bargains compared to Napa cult wines.</div><div><br /></div><div>Another affordable, treat-yourself-option is to sign up for Member Clubs that virtually all wineries offer. The prices are usually discounted from full retail, and members typically also get first access to Reserve wines or limited production estate bottlings. And if you’re willing to do the sleuthing, there are wine retailers as well as Internet firms who will work with you to design your very own Personalized Wine Club. </div><div><br /></div><div>In closing, I must acknowledge, because of the negatives mentioned above, that I implemented my proposal earlier this year. Because of my buying style (three of this, four of that, rather than multiple cases of one producer) I tend to have a good variety of California and European wines (recent as well as older vintages) that effectively results in an ongoing, Personalized Wine Club. </div><div><br /></div><div>I maintained it with curbside pick-ups from local wine retailers, as well as Internet purchases from several of the better known websites. But, unfortunately, as I keystroke this, we may shortly be ordered into another lockdown for homes and many businesses. Stay safe, and pour yourself a good glass of wine with dinner tonight.
</div>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-45625606598002474302020-10-13T10:59:00.000-07:002020-10-13T10:59:11.372-07:00The real story is beyond the numbers.<p> </p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Robert M. Parker had
only one thing in mind when he created the 100-point wine rating system: the
ultimate, wine buying consumer—you and me. He designed a “school report card”
rating system for us that was easy to understand and easier, yet, to utilize.</span><span style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">It eliminated the angst and uncertainty of
what to buy, and replaced it with confidence and certitude.</span><span style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">I mean, really, what’s wrong about buying
wines rated in the 90+ categories, even if you know absolutely nothing about
the wine’s underlying grapes, the appellation or the producer?</span><span style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Read on.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">Parker’s tunnel
vision (as he called it) focused on smell, taste and texture. That’s it!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Details like the history of the area and the
producer, or relevant social and cultural aspects were irrelevant. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was democratic and hedonistic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Just the facts, Ma’am, just the facts” as Sergeant
Joe Friday used to utter on the popular <i>Dragnet</i> TV series. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unfortunately, in Parker’s ratings, there were
no facts, just numbers—mystically precise, all-encompassing numbers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">That wines of
all types, from every and all places can be reduced to a subjective, flash card,
numerical assessment should alert buyers to the fact that <i>there must be
something more</i>; that the rating is simply the starting point, and for curious
buyers, like this tooth-stained enthusiast, <i>the real story is beyond the numbers</i>.
<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">I suppose,
in his defense, he left it up to me and others to take that extra step and go beyond
the numbers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bordeaux enthusiasts, for
example, who have taken the extra step and became informed about the appellations
know that a St. Estephe rated, say, 92 is wildly different from a St. Emilion,
also rated 92. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have different primary,
underlying grapes, from different soils and weather patterns and accordingly
display their own, unique colors, aromas and flavors, as well as structural and
textural aspects.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But gosh, they’re both
92s, who cares?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">To elevate an
emerging winemaker to international visibility because he/she recently crafted
a deep, dark and intense wine in his/her garage is praiseworthy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But to refashion or reimagine (in numerical precision)
the historical, cultural and social fabric of artisan winegrowing in many of the
world’s appellations is quite another feat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The distinctiveness of provenance and what was required both in viticulture
(grape growing) and viniculture (wine making) were no longer relevant or part
of the number crunching.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">Maybe it’s
time to return to the days of respecting those unique differences.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a time in the past when America’s love
affair with wine was beginning, when wine writing was a bit more informative
and literary, if not downright—dare I say it—intellectual.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;">I miss old-time
wine writers who provided the details beyond the numbers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, there were no numbers, simply a presentation
of what one needed to know about the who, what, where and why of regions and
their accomplished producers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I lingered
over the writings of Hugh Johnson, Oz Clarke, Michael Broadbent, and, most particularly,
Gerald Asher as they brought wine to life for me.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>More often than not, those writers sat face
to face with winegrowers who lived (and died) on the land, most likely as the
recent part of a multi-generational commitment from a time-tested, winegrowing family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seriously, can one realistically assign a
number to that?<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">But all is
not lost, because magazines like </span><i style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Wine Spectator,</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><i style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Wine Enthusiast</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">
and (especially) </span><i style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">Decanter</i><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> do, from time to time, present in-depth
articles on appellations, producers, and current practices.</span><span style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">And lastly, don’t forget that on the back
label of every wine there is typically a reference to the producer’s Internet
web site, and detailed therein is usually an “About Us” section that details
important family traditions and beliefs.</span><span style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">
</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">There’s a wealth of information beyond the numbers, if you’re interested
in pursuing it. </span><span style="color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: white; color: #222533; font-family: "Times New Roman",serif; font-size: 14.0pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal;"><span style="background: #EBEBEB; color: #27293e;"> </span><o:p></o:p></p>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-76074872200786592092020-09-03T12:14:00.000-07:002020-09-03T18:26:35.416-07:00Evolution of a Palate. Part 2<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">At the end my previous article, I mentioned which red
wines were delivering more overall pleasure than my previous favorites: wines
with less intensity in color, aroma and flavor; those with less reliance on new
oak; and others with a tad more palate-cleansing acidity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In a word, wines that are “lip smacking” good,
aka <i>delicious</i>.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">But first, let’s revisit Cola, my very first and favorite,
food-accompanying beverage, and why it never failed to satisfy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beyond the seductive sweetness, the reason I (and
likely you) loved Cola with cheeseburgers and French fries was because of the fizzy
stuff. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Acidity. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Besides washing down the food, it did
something else I didn’t fully appreciate: it cleansed my palate between bites (of
all that artery clogging sludge), and prepped it for the next mouthful. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Next, in my “ABC” Chardonnay phase, it didn't take long before
I got jaded with the buttery, oak laden style.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was then, as I moved on to oak free whites like Sauvignon Blanc, that
I discerned acidity’s importance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
what gave whites their vitality, and showcased the refreshing qualities of the underlying
grape(s).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>With viscous oak no longer coating
my palate, that stuff in the stemware actually started smelling and tasting
like wine! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">However, with powerful red wine, where intensity and
oak were the focus, I did not immediately appreciate the acidity connection. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But after sampling a variety of different reds,
I noted that, while they did not possess the qualities of <i>intensity</i> (of
color, aroma and flavor), or the ability to age for a decade or more, they had their
own positive qualities: engaging red fruit appearance; appealing aromatics and
flavors; and, more importantly, an easy to drink, <i>succulent</i> quality that
made them easy to pair with food.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The elegant and luscious Pinot Noirs, particularly from
California, were the first to turn my head and gain my attention.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Smooth, crisp and drinkable upon release, few,
if any, required aging to reveal their best qualities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After sniffing and sipping my way through
many, I came to prefer the juicy ones from these regions near the California
coastline: Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands, Santa
Rita Hills, Arroyo Grande and Santa Barbara county. Quality producers abound,
and with some word of mouth, Internet searches and/or wine store sleuthing, you
should be able to nail down a few favorites. </span></div>
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<span style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">The Reds of Spain, with a tad more verve, gave me
another tasty alternative to muscular fruit bombs. Spain has many excellent appellations,
but I settled on the mouth-watering blends of Rioja. Rioja’s hierarchy is based
on time and level of aging—in oak and bottle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The ascending order is Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva, with my palate
currently favoring the more youthful Crianzas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sierra Cantabria, CVNE (aka Cune), Caceres, Riscal and Muga have never
failed to satisfy and prices are in the $20 range. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">However, Italy’s Sangiovese grape is where the verve
and vitality of acidity is a regular attribute, and Tuscany is ground
zero.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Chianti, Montalcino (both Brunello
and Rosso), and Montepulciano (Vino Nobile and Rosso) are the regions whose
wines are currently seeing a lot of tabletop duty at the Barras household. Excellent
Chianti producers are Volpaia, Felsina, Fontodi, Villa Antinori and Selvapiana.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In Montpulciano, I’ve enjoyed a few bottles of Vino Nobile
from Poliziano and Avignonesi, but my heart and credit card are currently
centered on Montalcino, particularly the Brunellos, but also the more
economical and early drinking Rossos. These are high quality, exceptional wines
that invite involvement and study.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While
relying on your local wine retailer and/or buying on the Internet is an adequate
start, I must recommend Kerin O’Keefe’s excellent book, <i>Brunello di
Montalcino</i>, to fully understand the appellation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Also, I cannot fail to mention that in the Beaujolais
appellation there are ten upper echelon wines, called “Crus” that have delivered
many years of drinking pleasure and excellent food accompaniment. With the first
four or five displaying more structure and complexity, they are: Moulin-a-vent,
Morgon, Julienas, Cote de Brouilly, Chenas, Brouilly, Regnie, Chiroubles,
Fleurie, and Saint-Amour. Internet and quality retail wine stores are your best
sources.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And finally, my palate’s trajectory may or may not be
reflective of yours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wine, of course, is
my hobby, and while writing about it gives me new insights and directions to
follow, I’m also employing a not too subtle approach of suggesting that you
also consider joining the pursuit. There are many interesting wines out there,
and not simply the ones I’ve mentioned above. I would love to hear from you
about them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-18782914207149857592020-07-11T10:37:00.002-07:002020-09-27T13:52:41.797-07:00Evolution of a palate. Part One<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSgP2Znt0ZJoLzjHBqd6decWq-xgYds-AXa27jDkSyoGjh1FDPrHxubQIxAxE4jTNDoyAGWSgEQbel7Iu-OWmCvLcI0oP3lyes5Ev7PM8HJgTNvg-sqlkNEpnhmbf3VI9iF5Ek7kyiWwg/s1600/cola.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="207" data-original-width="276" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSgP2Znt0ZJoLzjHBqd6decWq-xgYds-AXa27jDkSyoGjh1FDPrHxubQIxAxE4jTNDoyAGWSgEQbel7Iu-OWmCvLcI0oP3lyes5Ev7PM8HJgTNvg-sqlkNEpnhmbf3VI9iF5Ek7kyiWwg/s200/cola.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">As a wine newbie, my original preferences were likely determined
by a Cola-trained palate.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mateus and
Lancers, popular Pinks of the day, were soft, very palate-friendly, and inexpensive, plus they
had the added cachet of being imported.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But
it didn’t take long, noting in the “savor” tasting step, that they weren't savory, they were sweet! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0L3HFgZLrAwOPn-7C4jOJNbQOTYCO5ebahKJjN3FhVrJesSuJSeIEZse-dfdEkBnaLQsWaQUfhcOS2KpZI5aZNNsu9X5_cckUyjF1qsR09RNgsrtX752YUCq_uSOQRE-hjcyGypWkzg/s1600/chenin1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="237" data-original-width="156" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy0L3HFgZLrAwOPn-7C4jOJNbQOTYCO5ebahKJjN3FhVrJesSuJSeIEZse-dfdEkBnaLQsWaQUfhcOS2KpZI5aZNNsu9X5_cckUyjF1qsR09RNgsrtX752YUCq_uSOQRE-hjcyGypWkzg/s200/chenin1.jpg" width="131" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">My pursuit shifted to California whites, and I started
sniffing and sipping Chenin Blanc. Somewhat off-dry, but not as overtly sweet
as the Portuguese Pinks, it was a bit more “serious” because the varietal
seemed to lay claim to French provenance, which is where the day’s action was in
upscale food and wine. Also, it was soft and easy to drink. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb0p_ZXQy-vuHc1YUwZqw9kP8ydwjNdggLkZHzv51ymSFKgIDqTkQezM-PAcxzFApQAYschyphenhyphenhDD_jJGXIbLI-kCzgS2dABYuVkTZEZ8kgyeSgsTQ7oKq5CG2BIgzmRn4AZYiNIif24ypU/s1600/c+and+c1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="176" data-original-width="315" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb0p_ZXQy-vuHc1YUwZqw9kP8ydwjNdggLkZHzv51ymSFKgIDqTkQezM-PAcxzFApQAYschyphenhyphenhDD_jJGXIbLI-kCzgS2dABYuVkTZEZ8kgyeSgsTQ7oKq5CG2BIgzmRn4AZYiNIif24ypU/s200/c+and+c1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Sensing that I was a budding wine Geek, a friend with far
more wine experience than I, offered me this sage advice: “For reds, drink Cabernet
Sauvignon, and for whites, drink Chardonnay. The Cabernet goes with meats, and
the Chardonnay goes with fish. You don’t need anything else.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Foodies </span>know that depending on herbs, spices
and sauces, those ancient axioms are reversible. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And like all free advice, it was worth what I
paid for it. There had to be more interesting options available. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Another friend, definitely more wine savvy than the
first one, introduced me to Robert Parker’s, <i>Wine Advocate</i>, bimonthly
newsletter. The issue he loaned me was Parker’s historic review of the 1982
Bordeaux vintage, which has been credited with launching him as the most
successful wine critic ever.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">Because
of the seductive, adjective and verb-laden enthusiasm with which he described
the wines, I immediately signed up for a membership.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">If those wines were THAT good, I had to experience
them.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaKcG3ys29TyFYqUBriQYEdQSyjgKYGz9Iwz70-HvJP29M5W5RZ608ctzAnQ_YtgWKWRdnl5faE5stvEYvNBKI838Ly1PdSTeU3yfJOyNgiric0aVW0TNXBmKYFx0R7TInGwb_buIa1M/s1600/parker+book1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="312" data-original-width="208" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaKcG3ys29TyFYqUBriQYEdQSyjgKYGz9Iwz70-HvJP29M5W5RZ608ctzAnQ_YtgWKWRdnl5faE5stvEYvNBKI838Ly1PdSTeU3yfJOyNgiric0aVW0TNXBmKYFx0R7TInGwb_buIa1M/s200/parker+book1.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">With Parker’s wine reviews and ratings</span><i style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> (</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">plus his
subsequent books)</span><i style="font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">serving as my “wine consultant,” I devoured the
appellation and producer details of Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhone Valley
(North and South) that he published. My palate became more informed and broadened,
and I was loading up my recently purchased wine vault. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">Moreover, I was developing a hobby. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDfTimsJtkhU5zZWU2QI8xN-UrwsvOE1gyxEL6jZHDCboQVLjo5nnDtNkQK3KwAM0GLl8DBWufqcTSWipc9WilLJIKqsGh-niNLn-Pm1UM9GjnbrNhKbJneQSr_VufZmIqYXkGKVTQfA/s1600/richred1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="220" data-original-width="294" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipDfTimsJtkhU5zZWU2QI8xN-UrwsvOE1gyxEL6jZHDCboQVLjo5nnDtNkQK3KwAM0GLl8DBWufqcTSWipc9WilLJIKqsGh-niNLn-Pm1UM9GjnbrNhKbJneQSr_VufZmIqYXkGKVTQfA/s200/richred1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">As a confirmed “Parkerite,” my palate was in sync with
his. I came to love rich and ripe, deep and dark, low-acid reds, with lavishly
oak-derived aromatics and flavors, But as I very slowly came to appreciate, much
of the overall palatal impact came from other than the wine’s underlying
grapes.</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">It was stuff from the
winemaker’s tool box that dressed up those highly rated crowd pleasers.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqwA9Y21svEn_OnbbttzffC8KbxKtL_I7xx8NT9r9W5QJtJb89VVgr0eWAHUHH9zBvxuWGOM4RTDBygB-qbSQzhqIzONuzi1B53rS2TLnxNEnAjr3ZYsdQuL3OyO7zJJaaPqO7FiUWHT4/s1600/stuffed+breasts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="186" data-original-width="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqwA9Y21svEn_OnbbttzffC8KbxKtL_I7xx8NT9r9W5QJtJb89VVgr0eWAHUHH9zBvxuWGOM4RTDBygB-qbSQzhqIzONuzi1B53rS2TLnxNEnAjr3ZYsdQuL3OyO7zJJaaPqO7FiUWHT4/s1600/stuffed+breasts.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">However, the dinner recipes my wife and I prepared did
not, for the most part, work well with that robust and intense style of wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The food became, in effect, background music
to the muscular, attention-demanding wines accompanying them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In time, I sold most of my reds at a wine
auction and traded the proceeds for future </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">purchases (of alternate reds) that
offered the promise of being equal in Quality but more food friendly.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzEA4G_bJIuq-A10OuL0tUvZsUrb0SpTsK7Wa4w6Zjhzbvq4jmhAMWuRdG_qHtV1cWj7s2h4-ABF4jhhJVQBOVRlih9h79xinMBKsJt5r-S4IS8HaGdXYixjTDDAnwInSxqteVWB2GKY/s1600/delicious1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="203" data-original-width="361" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdzEA4G_bJIuq-A10OuL0tUvZsUrb0SpTsK7Wa4w6Zjhzbvq4jmhAMWuRdG_qHtV1cWj7s2h4-ABF4jhhJVQBOVRlih9h79xinMBKsJt5r-S4IS8HaGdXYixjTDDAnwInSxqteVWB2GKY/s200/delicious1.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Rhetorically speaking, “What kind of wine might that
be?”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For starters, how about something lighter
bodied and less intense? </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">Instead of
being black as motor oil, maybe one with an engaging ruby/red color? </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">Possibly one with less intrusive oak? </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">Or, if you can imagine it, even no oak?</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">And perish the thought, one with more palate-cleansing
</span><i style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">acidity?</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> And finally, a wine that is savory, suave and just plain </span><i style="font-family: "times new roman", serif; font-size: 14pt;">delicious</i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">?
</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;"> Forgive me, but t</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">here’s a bit more to the
rant. Please s</span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt;">tay tuned.</span></div>
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tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-30191156410133345932020-05-15T10:28:00.002-07:002020-09-27T13:26:18.152-07:00America's first great wine connoisseur. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjIIl3u25HVf_9S1BwrvvniyJaS9bZ1clI893xug6ID-DZ2EOTL8T0lThAUiyzdIe6v8Tib0VxnAX857HSpk_mmF5pOuqN-_d1EjeWwlUE7TyFUGNwCIWT2Ex5lb_pT7QgGaCZuFmgPBg/s1600/jeff3.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="187" data-original-width="288" height="129" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjIIl3u25HVf_9S1BwrvvniyJaS9bZ1clI893xug6ID-DZ2EOTL8T0lThAUiyzdIe6v8Tib0VxnAX857HSpk_mmF5pOuqN-_d1EjeWwlUE7TyFUGNwCIWT2Ex5lb_pT7QgGaCZuFmgPBg/s200/jeff3.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Thomas Jefferson has been called America’s First Wine
Geek. And although other <i>Founding Fathers </i>were known to have enjoyed
wine (John Hancock, John Adams, George Washington, Benjamin Franklin), none
approached Jefferson’s level of interest, study or commitment. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He was quite frank with this famous quotation:
“Good wine is a necessity of life for me.” <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0obDc_gS-7xI079gPV1FabnE55UlUFOjUNadBpToCS3kr1ZdiCLkP1Z5g_tylXo_xrNpS2QxGmFl_O4SqQTHa5tW7U8BvdoNmS1wVaPg3qllw248ECMyPY4qq2Qp0WlS1Ek2Wezvevo/s1600/vinegar2.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="246" data-original-width="176" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs0obDc_gS-7xI079gPV1FabnE55UlUFOjUNadBpToCS3kr1ZdiCLkP1Z5g_tylXo_xrNpS2QxGmFl_O4SqQTHa5tW7U8BvdoNmS1wVaPg3qllw248ECMyPY4qq2Qp0WlS1Ek2Wezvevo/s200/vinegar2.jpg" width="143" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">I got reacquainted with this topic as a byproduct of
my “social distance” Internet reading of <i>The Billionaire’s Vinegar</i>, an
interesting and informative book about easily duped wine critics and naïve, deep
pocket wine collectors.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The story
revolves around sales of fake bottles of wine from 1787 which were represented
as having been owned by Thomas Jefferson.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQljWdw1yUKIOtFHSU23EB1Jv-NMLn0NptwS5n47lVQR1O-Ky9WXTuwJJm0d1CV_yXPk6cnR8DtAFumkiMSjXR8mHbRRqgJkM-nqasaGcVXWqhI3qkryo0KXvVITs_THzmacybxzIGyOE/s1600/jeff+on+wine+.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="262" data-original-width="173" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQljWdw1yUKIOtFHSU23EB1Jv-NMLn0NptwS5n47lVQR1O-Ky9WXTuwJJm0d1CV_yXPk6cnR8DtAFumkiMSjXR8mHbRRqgJkM-nqasaGcVXWqhI3qkryo0KXvVITs_THzmacybxzIGyOE/s200/jeff+on+wine+.jpg" width="132" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">That book led me to John Hailman’s <i>Thomas Jefferson
on Wine</i>, a nifty $2.00 Amazon softcover purchase! It’s overly detailed and
documented, even for this wine-obsessed enthusiast, but it does reveal how
Jefferson, through his relentless pursuit of wine’s various aspects, he personified
the topic of what is now known as “wine appreciation.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNuFdpdwE8MeZD3TRqL7By9u_gx4FN1LhyphenhyphendMkmHXQ48d6UhFkdDwxC8zJ6ueFIWXjlop8kS8c2gZQVqMoO8XdAOBB4zLHcDa1PCJ_dyeCkfa9e1QHQLlpf7FNqs2bW9N6mgIbkzAdVEc/s1600/wm+small.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="324" data-original-width="216" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNuFdpdwE8MeZD3TRqL7By9u_gx4FN1LhyphenhyphendMkmHXQ48d6UhFkdDwxC8zJ6ueFIWXjlop8kS8c2gZQVqMoO8XdAOBB4zLHcDa1PCJ_dyeCkfa9e1QHQLlpf7FNqs2bW9N6mgIbkzAdVEc/s200/wm+small.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Beginning in 1760, during his two years at William and
Mary, his Mentor and Philosophy instructor William Small set the stage for crucial
aspects of Jefferson’s life, including his introduction to wine. Small
introduced him to his soon-to-be Law tutor (George Wythe), as well as the Governor
of Virginia (Francis Fauquier). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">The four of them met for periodic chamber music
sessions, and invitations to fine wine dinners soon followed. For an
aristocratic young man who had seldom strayed from his father’s Virginia
plantation, this was an extraordinary and privileged jump start in life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">It was after his election to the House of Burgesses, and
later as a Virginia delegate to the First Continental Congress, that he had more
access to better wines than fortified Madeira and simple, whites (in barrel)
from Portugal. However, it was during his 1784 to 1789 Paris assignment (to
secure commercial treaties with European nations) that his in depth education in
wine (and food!) took place, particularly when he replaced Benjamin Franklin as
America’s official Minister. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Much as Franklin did before him, Jefferson enjoyed the
finest French food and wine, plus other Parisian cultural activities that royalty
and aristocrats were routinely accustomed to.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Entertaining or being entertained was the order of the day, all the
while ensuring that America’s economic and security interests were foremost. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6nDfmOz55JuNuI0kYTCkNTmRTF81oRJj_CgAruuptkphj5UncyR33fm0WomY-AEFAt0BORT1qRfI_IhpMNnr8z_yZOfGq8ePhddQOEmy15tNslKqmHHWQE1qO2kF7Po7rdAF6epTr5v8/s1600/tour1.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="1200" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6nDfmOz55JuNuI0kYTCkNTmRTF81oRJj_CgAruuptkphj5UncyR33fm0WomY-AEFAt0BORT1qRfI_IhpMNnr8z_yZOfGq8ePhddQOEmy15tNslKqmHHWQE1qO2kF7Po7rdAF6epTr5v8/s320/tour1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">One aspect of his Paris assignment which has received much
attention, is his March, April, May self-guided tour in 1787 of France’s major
wine producing regions. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">Meticulously documenting everything in a special
journal, he travelled incognito, at his own expense, over twelve hundred miles
(by carriage, by horseback and even by muleback!). Using local guides when
available, he visited Burgundy, Beaujolais, Rhone Valley (North and South), Southwestern
France, and Bordeaux, plus a quick side trip to northern Italy’s Piedmont area.
</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbc-QqrLGXH3bYkGGucBVsGyNTrqSA_gNBAUyt67eXH36xIQQTmVjefKdrI9EjuMG0TMPEh6O-e7rb-fommVmY_HjW2LhTThSJ88DGkoNG1gOlQO1YsPoxMemAvueiJvJVDJ-IM4vqpR4/s1600/exposition.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="230" data-original-width="332" height="138" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbc-QqrLGXH3bYkGGucBVsGyNTrqSA_gNBAUyt67eXH36xIQQTmVjefKdrI9EjuMG0TMPEh6O-e7rb-fommVmY_HjW2LhTThSJ88DGkoNG1gOlQO1YsPoxMemAvueiJvJVDJ-IM4vqpR4/s200/exposition.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;">He came away with a list of the best and most reliable
producers to order from (for himself and others) when returning to America. Moreover, he formalized his competent and very
articulate Bordeaux reviews and ratings into various quality levels. Quite interestingly, they vary little (60+
years later!) from the “Official Bordeaux Wine Classification of 1855”
announced at<span style="background: white; color: #111111;"> that year’s<i> Exposition</i> <i>Universelle de Paris.</i> (Serious Bordeaux enthusiasts know that the 1855 Classification is still, to this day, the go-to list for the hierarchy of Bordeaux producers.)</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">If Jefferson were to return to America today, he would
experience a number of satisfying discoveries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>With wine producers in all fifty states, (80+ in Virginia and 33 very
near Monticello), his dream of America becoming a wine producing nation has
come to fruition and then some.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hailman also
believes that if Jefferson were to browse retail wine shops or search the
Internet, he would recognize many of his old favorites.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEcWCWciyHtp5ZWnksqnnTfdAeru9RLf1oObDF2Y03xo2PmNpjfRn4Kc7dvPl7YUKaVJaTSQ9UwZzMvdGVJpl90heYL9TRNGfseezRmmFt8j1sT2ifgQ9zvlADa6Jm6oM3IISA-Xpr0t8/s1600/store3.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="308" height="159" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEcWCWciyHtp5ZWnksqnnTfdAeru9RLf1oObDF2Y03xo2PmNpjfRn4Kc7dvPl7YUKaVJaTSQ9UwZzMvdGVJpl90heYL9TRNGfseezRmmFt8j1sT2ifgQ9zvlADa6Jm6oM3IISA-Xpr0t8/s200/store3.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%;">And finally, in a real tip of the hat to America’s
first great wine connoisseur, he offers, “And of all the places that he could
visit in modern America, he might well find himself more at home in a wine shop
than in any other place.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can relate
to that. </span><br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-38639939041194196062020-03-28T14:45:00.000-07:002020-03-28T14:45:41.533-07:00An overdue book review and recommendation. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VF51nmwO87LXSTokx1opwTuPMBQ0QLbEn9Xwo5f8QNhl168apeJAdL2FPhdXqh5TTkK3MmBCANOwM1XE6y0mKEMuRWVF2Zh58LtB4iAyzqqgMBEl8smzMBk41pUyDr_xdJECx_fzRwQ/s1600/style1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="293" data-original-width="188" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VF51nmwO87LXSTokx1opwTuPMBQ0QLbEn9Xwo5f8QNhl168apeJAdL2FPhdXqh5TTkK3MmBCANOwM1XE6y0mKEMuRWVF2Zh58LtB4iAyzqqgMBEl8smzMBk41pUyDr_xdJECx_fzRwQ/s200/style1.jpg" width="128" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">As a byproduct of complying with “social distancing”
and “shelter-in-place” directives, I started browsing a few of my wine books.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One that seems to have survived the challenge
of having relevant and timely information is <i>Wine Style</i> by Mary Ewing-Mulligan
and Ed McCarthy. Though published in 2005, its information and advice are still
current and useful, especially for those open to exploring new approaches to
wine appreciation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">You may be unfamiliar with their names, but they have authored
three editions of the highly successful <i>Wines for Dummies</i> book, and six
other editions in the <i>For Dummies</i> series. <i>Wine Style</i> is their effort
to provide a new perspective to understanding wine, a sensory one. That is, why it tastes
good. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The authors define wine style as “a set of
characteristics through which wine manifests itself—the composite
personality of the wine.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those principal
characteristics are appearance, acidity, tannin, sweetness and alcohol (body),
plus other structural qualities like balance, depth and concentration. With
those elements in mind Mulligan and McCarthy see four major White wine styles, four
styles for Red, two for </span><span style="background: white; color: #3c464e; font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Rosé</span><span style="background: white; color: #666666; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">and two for Sparkling Wine.
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">For each White they see “stylistic
markers” that typify it, while at the same time differentiating it from the other
three.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those characteristics are 1) flavor
intensity, 2) acidity level, 3) body weight and 4) the “presence or absence of oaky
character.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Based on that, their four
white styles are 1) Fresh, unoaked whites, 2) Earthy whites, 3) Aromatic
whites, and 4) Rich, oaky whites.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The four Red styles are differentiated
by 1) the level of tannins extracted, and 2) how flavorsome and fruity the
underlying grapes are.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Those aspects are
detailed in the four styles which are 1) Mild-mannered reds, 2) Soft and fruity
reds, 3) Fresh and spicy reds, and 4) Powerful reds. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The two styles of Rosé are
separated by level of sweetness and for Sparkling wines they are either 1) fresh
and fruity for current consumption or, 2) rich, earthy and complex by virtue of
aging at the producer. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In the first two chapters
they cover the notions of Style (Structure + Aromatics) as well as commenting
on Wine Quality, which includes the important notions of balance, depth, length
and concentration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Interestingly, they
do not support the qualities of <i>intensity</i> (for aroma and flavor) or <i>age-worthiness</i>
as being defining aspects of Wine Quality. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">However, most wine enthusiasts
know those two aspects, which wine critic Robert M. Parker championed, are what
propel wines into the 95+ ratings and beyond. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Fruit bombs may not necessarily be wines of
high quality.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Each Style is handled separately
in the remaining chapters, and for each they list the relevant underlying grapes,
as well as specific wines and/or producers to seek out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For example, in Unoaked Whites, where Italy
prevails, they list these as most representative of the style: Pinot Grigio,
Pinot Bianco, Soave. Verdicchio, and Vernaccia di San Gimignano.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Also, there is a nifty “Stylistic
Siblings” section in each chapter wherein they point out how the style being
detailed is different from its three other white or red siblings. For example, compared to
Earthy Whites, Fresh Unoaked types are lighter bodied, more acidic and less
substantial, while Aromatic Whites are fruitier and more flavorful. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Wine Style</span></i><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">
is a book rich with information and advice, and would be helpful for those
wishing to get beyond Cabernet and Chardonnay, or for those wishing to brush up
on their current perspectives.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wine
appreciation is like any other pursuit (music, food, art, etc.), it has much to
offer if you’re willing to make the effort. The book is still available, new or used, on the Internet at very low prices. </span></div>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-8693415497845234452020-01-20T09:55:00.001-08:002020-01-20T09:56:30.430-08:00Wine wisdom in a few short paragraphs. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNXioE4KZzb72HJPYTGp5uClVmvwrLezxyyexYcHWwQcQjGNBy9TjG9D9oQDP8Q1e_sg5pjdN30sOUUmn6Jj_PQpv8PJ5809WR1kcQh0GTl-huqQXtjgJDOrekSXKAXHyfRCo7WJpJLUo/s1600/wine+appreciation2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="215" data-original-width="248" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNXioE4KZzb72HJPYTGp5uClVmvwrLezxyyexYcHWwQcQjGNBy9TjG9D9oQDP8Q1e_sg5pjdN30sOUUmn6Jj_PQpv8PJ5809WR1kcQh0GTl-huqQXtjgJDOrekSXKAXHyfRCo7WJpJLUo/s200/wine+appreciation2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">One of my first wine buddies characterized the
pleasures of wine appreciation as a pursuit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There are different levels in that quest, and for many it ceases at “It
tastes good!”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Today’s article encourages
you to go a few steps further to find out why.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Learn the grape. </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The most important determinant of the way a
wine looks, smells, tastes and feels is the underlying grape from which it is
made.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Each has its own level and style
of aroma, acidity, tannins, dryness, and body. Check out Winefolly.com for those details.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Acidity</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">. This is the
“nervous system” of wine. Think citrus. <span style="background: white; color: black;">Wines with too little acidity are flat, dull, or flabby; those with too
much are lean, angular or tart; those that are balanced are “crisp,” giving the
wine vitality and a succulent mouthfeel, plus a palate cleansing finish while
dining. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Acidity is crucial in the
anatomy of Structure. </span></span><br />
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<b><span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Tannins. </span></b><span style="background: white; color: black; font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Tannins are </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">the “backbone” of red
wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Think over-steeped black tea. Wines
with a low level are loose or open knit; those with too much are bitter or
astringent; in between are well structured or refined tannins that give the
wine a presence or shape on the palate and provide a pleasant, palate-cleansing
finish.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tannins are a vital component of Structure, and are a key element in a wine’s ability to age and improve.</span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Dryness</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">. The level of
sweetness in a wine speaks for itself.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Except for notable exceptions, the current state of affairs in wines
with food is for them to be Dry—not sweet.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Body Style.</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Body relates
to the impression or <i>weight of the wine</i> in your mouth, and is usually
characterized as either light, medium or full, with hyphenated versions being
the more common. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>While alcohol levels
account for much of this mouthfeel, other winemaker options also
contribute.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Structure</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The notion of <i>Structure</i> is one
you must wrap your head <i>and</i> palate around, for it tells you there’s
something more than colorful liquid in your mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i>All the elements in the previous paragraphs
comprise the notion known as Structure.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They provide the anatomy or building blocks of wine that define how a
wine looks, smells and tastes, and, quite importantly, <i>how it feels in your
mouth</i>, and whether or not it is solidly structured and well balanced. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyPhmp-Hy9x0zsYxc0RyNhcP-vAsvftybw7zEFeGeejxKMNIy2AfWzp2q0_N6CL4zKRT5qTl69xNnAAnMAtw9lDuc8PmnMfy7Pz1SGBr2AA8hQuo4rv3wpDMS0XPGZe4_3GmyCAU3ljeQ/s1600/tanks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="248" data-original-width="318" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyPhmp-Hy9x0zsYxc0RyNhcP-vAsvftybw7zEFeGeejxKMNIy2AfWzp2q0_N6CL4zKRT5qTl69xNnAAnMAtw9lDuc8PmnMfy7Pz1SGBr2AA8hQuo4rv3wpDMS0XPGZe4_3GmyCAU3ljeQ/s200/tanks.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Stainless steel versus
Oak</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wines are <i>matured and aged</i> in a number
of different vessels, but these are the most common, with the former primarily
used for whites and the latter for reds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The sealed environment of stainless tanks produces fruity freshness,
lively acidity, and aromas and flavors that clearly reflect the underlying grape. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Eq6W4Uys_aPpqmDiZCU2hqslMKT5Y4E_Wkq8t7-aNBQvqI2iy8ms1yFWPdQfAwyo-Yq4jWriZbbMcHzncTk2gsYQGCs68Qko-eEZYjHKI2uuet57ZyMa1_FA0jW_fAWnJse-DIMkQG8/s1600/oak+barrels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="221" data-original-width="300" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2Eq6W4Uys_aPpqmDiZCU2hqslMKT5Y4E_Wkq8t7-aNBQvqI2iy8ms1yFWPdQfAwyo-Yq4jWriZbbMcHzncTk2gsYQGCs68Qko-eEZYjHKI2uuet57ZyMa1_FA0jW_fAWnJse-DIMkQG8/s200/oak+barrels.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><b>Oak barrels</b> are primarily used
for the fermentation, maturation and aging of red wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Because they are porous, they impart aromas
and flavors of the toasted wood, as well as permitting a carefully monitored
evaporation (concentration).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>New oak
flavors: vanilla, nuts, charred bread, mocha, chocolate, espresso and baking spices.
Neutral oak (previously used) effect is far less, but like new, imparts a
smooth, creamy aspect. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ84LjWBY7TIaQoS3sXVxT_XBmSBopG3hrHFDuK1kP0gHHrVv1FfUisR1cXAOMqkbkvlUfJWx46HHEPhDIG2aomT9yoHfvRlRyRyFxz_jFPO2qNnbFW9qcBzQ4rnIwsQlKoqswT9VbYoo/s1600/white+female+sniffer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="248" height="161" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ84LjWBY7TIaQoS3sXVxT_XBmSBopG3hrHFDuK1kP0gHHrVv1FfUisR1cXAOMqkbkvlUfJWx46HHEPhDIG2aomT9yoHfvRlRyRyFxz_jFPO2qNnbFW9qcBzQ4rnIwsQlKoqswT9VbYoo/s200/white+female+sniffer.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Bringing it all together. </span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Keeping
the above aspects in mind, take your time in the Sip and Savor step, and hold a
generous amount of wine in your mouth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Move it around so it hits all <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>areas of your tongue which react to wine’s main
palatal qualities of sweetness, bitterness and juiciness.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whether you spit or swallow, be attentive to
the presence and level of those elements. Ponder that sip. Take another to
confirm, and bring it all together. What is that wine revealing? </span><br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Finally.</span></b><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> Appealing and
flavorsome qualities are what we all seek in a wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Accepting that outcome without further
inquiry is one thing, but for those who occasionally are a bit more inquisitive, something
more will come of it. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Enjoy.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-83402423430486625662019-11-19T13:43:00.000-08:002019-11-24T14:20:52.796-08:00Of Wine and Heritage. A very personal story. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8sZm8C8lHaYvTMp1qHgKJqJsYsjD0FBDpgoVVEVbliNH-AlAzNe6XTf9tS2XrFvBl7TJHu4GyoQyOLAYNygwr173z9NjSq0d4_tm1ICXrbRqdBahOSVtlSuPOCr8QUrYxIIRSKk9qTrk/s1600/wine+appreciation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="182" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8sZm8C8lHaYvTMp1qHgKJqJsYsjD0FBDpgoVVEVbliNH-AlAzNe6XTf9tS2XrFvBl7TJHu4GyoQyOLAYNygwr173z9NjSq0d4_tm1ICXrbRqdBahOSVtlSuPOCr8QUrYxIIRSKk9qTrk/s200/wine+appreciation.jpg" width="182" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Living in the San Francisco Bay Area, where Wine
Country is but a few hours away, and food and wine is a near daily obsession
for many residents, I found Wine Appreciation an easy hobby to pursue.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Thirsting for knowledge, I did it all: read
books, scoured magazines, studied wine newsletters, attended winemaker dinners,
signed up for tasting classes, sipped samples in stores and peppered sales
clerks with endless questions. These initial efforts got me through the ABC’s
of wine—how a wine looks, smells and tastes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">While the ABC’s were an adequate introduction,
they did little to feed my hunger for the subject as a whole.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was curious about the origins of wine, as
well as its historical development; where it was first discovered and how it
became such a beautifully crafted, international product. It wasn’t nearly
enough to be able to recognize a particular wine’s aroma and flavor, or how
highly rated it was, I needed to know its provenance and who were its best
producers. </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span><span style="font-size: large;"></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span><span style="font-size: large;"></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span><span style="font-size: large;"></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span><span style="font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">While my Bay Area residency provided the initial
impetus for exploring wine appreciation, my heritage evolved into a more
gratifying motivator.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As a first
generation Greek American, I was attracted to the subject because of numerous
references to ancient Greece, and its pivotal role in the cultural and economic
aspects of wine’s development. </span><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsM9JJ4zCT10UuF4pfpZRI7sMA6Fvqjd5PFbqPIurQzaonZ76fMinQMRpkJ8Twt7QCoNc1wlimeQjvWufS5F5FTCr-uUc1GdFnaBkDInzv6XAGzSKXHI0g6E52_yYRXwlbyG3InOEbzpc/s1600/dionysus3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="143" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsM9JJ4zCT10UuF4pfpZRI7sMA6Fvqjd5PFbqPIurQzaonZ76fMinQMRpkJ8Twt7QCoNc1wlimeQjvWufS5F5FTCr-uUc1GdFnaBkDInzv6XAGzSKXHI0g6E52_yYRXwlbyG3InOEbzpc/s200/dionysus3.jpg" width="142" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">In ancient Greek culture, reality and myth were
inextricably intertwined.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Virtually all
aspects of daily life, including wine, were under the watchful eye of the Gods on
Mount Olympus.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Just as the Greeks had a
god of the seas (Poseidon), a goddess of love (Aphrodite), and a goddess of
agriculture (Demeter), they also had a god of wine (Dionysus).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wall paintings, sculptures, mosaics, vase
paintings and coins provided eternal evidence of the various myths surrounding
Dionysus’ adventure-filled history. </span><br />
<br />
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</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3sgOb4z8Q8VVsT95CpUGxRvR4h064x0GrFQT6th6w5mwvaT32jbyVXsxk5D5rWGNgdfqjZIGRVIf0rUOF8JAkyZXeg3mToFTdziy3DszTxTzP8h42OBo7Ok8sk41HF5D4YQg2L5Vft8/s1600/wild+red.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="232" data-original-width="170" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl3sgOb4z8Q8VVsT95CpUGxRvR4h064x0GrFQT6th6w5mwvaT32jbyVXsxk5D5rWGNgdfqjZIGRVIf0rUOF8JAkyZXeg3mToFTdziy3DszTxTzP8h42OBo7Ok8sk41HF5D4YQg2L5Vft8/s200/wild+red.jpg" width="146" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">On the wine-growing and economic side, the early
Greeks were one of the first to tame <i>vitis</i> <i>vinifera</i> vines, the
wild grape vines that grew haphazardly in nature.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead of letting them randomly intertwine
around shrubs, bushes and trees, they developed organized planting and
trellising systems.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In time, a thriving
exporting industry resulted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In that
sense, the Greeks were major players in the democratization of wine.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prior to that, royalty, particularly the
Egyptians, reserved it for themselves and/or visiting dignitaries. </span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6vJJpOfUoputy_l8jhIAogJvWa4odZEpiYuHONpPR1Tmuam5iK0xspYCFifJMEIRz-mp_G5bwd-70_r3ZH7YMhu1qZ9XuM813QJ-5HZJp_qIvUMIvbiQzWs_XTH048FK2Uy0dgj2Yfsw/s1600/odyssey2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="217" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6vJJpOfUoputy_l8jhIAogJvWa4odZEpiYuHONpPR1Tmuam5iK0xspYCFifJMEIRz-mp_G5bwd-70_r3ZH7YMhu1qZ9XuM813QJ-5HZJp_qIvUMIvbiQzWs_XTH048FK2Uy0dgj2Yfsw/s200/odyssey2.jpg" width="159" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">It was during the period of exporting its wines that
Greek vineyards became known and coveted throughout the Mediterranean.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They weren’t simple, generic wines, they were
exceptional wines from specific locations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>And it was while reading Homer’s <i>Odyssey</i> and other sources referencing
the <i>Wine Dark Sea</i> of the north Aegean, that my ancestral sensors began
to vibrate with heightened interest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My
mother was born in that region on the island of Lesvos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These references caused me to wonder, could
her birthplace have been one of the sources of those acclaimed, ancient Greek
wines?</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvP1r0kkveoMT8Dy6_JRVRUer6k8BAJ2TlegwXRMTTxsox5kCljw65jZZCfjrX8CKErjeDJnaWlcwFMtIP8xbHy8LjVaDoM_lAqwtgdaKDZVQOETPNiGyQrVzs3q2xIEf60a3IEigUvys/s1600/amphorae2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="238" data-original-width="341" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvP1r0kkveoMT8Dy6_JRVRUer6k8BAJ2TlegwXRMTTxsox5kCljw65jZZCfjrX8CKErjeDJnaWlcwFMtIP8xbHy8LjVaDoM_lAqwtgdaKDZVQOETPNiGyQrVzs3q2xIEf60a3IEigUvys/s200/amphorae2.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">The answer is not a modest, self-effacing "yes." It's an exuberant, "high five" YES! Numerous amphorae, specially designed clay containers for storage and shipping, have been unearthed from ancient excavation sites throughout the Mediterranean. And those clay pots contain seals and inscriptions that very clearly identify the wine's origin: Lesvos. Moreover Hugh Johnson, an acclaimed British author, confirms that the wines of Lesvos were highly regarded, and they were likely the prime source of a rare and lusciously sweet wine that was not produced anywhere else. A truly unique, ancient wine from my Mother's birthplace? It couldn't get any better than that!! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Of course, my imagination ran wild. Could it be that ancient relatives--faces and names lost in the mists of oral history--toiled in the vineyards, pressed the grapes, and made those famous wines? Was the study of wine "in my blood?" Intriguing thoughts to be sure, and fun to ponder, especially over a glass of wine. <br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span><br />
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1GLZk1XGPuX3Ya4hzWuZfz7gwbjuD6VQYyWa9l87x_EtPd-06akLEI56dk3fQYY4yT1gp1DR1IAwcrJcfm8ausmIkoDxNqJpwh0amoRnb1hclDh6af_wcsJRuShxuWpic_kaGegU_vyI/s1600/meze2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="265" data-original-width="352" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1GLZk1XGPuX3Ya4hzWuZfz7gwbjuD6VQYyWa9l87x_EtPd-06akLEI56dk3fQYY4yT1gp1DR1IAwcrJcfm8ausmIkoDxNqJpwh0amoRnb1hclDh6af_wcsJRuShxuWpic_kaGegU_vyI/s200/meze2.jpg" width="200" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">There is, however, a bittersweet ending to my prideful
chest beating.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My Mother passed away before
I made my joyful discovery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Even though
we shared many lunches together prior to her passing—sipping wine and eating
savory, homemade <i>mezethes</i>—she and I were deprived of the opportunity to regale ourselves while talking about those famous wines of her birthplace.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can only imagine what great fun it would
have been.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxB_-gGbo87RGQhlyGZ8TMCHpezb3dtOYkMo2woDMjShr3Zh9zmg2nk_IZQ_IEAEGE0HIrjSYsmPSJSAZ_Zug_8noeuJC8ajlzIAFL55rKZCaaxUVfdZtBcJ7T13Jp8UavSUZR2SNWg7A/s1600/meze2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">------------------------------------</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">Note: A longer version of the above was published in the January 2014 edition of <i>Still Crazy: A Literary Magazine,</i> which is no longer published. </span></span></span><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><u></u><u></u><u></u><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif;"></span>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-36365001803868960462019-09-21T09:44:00.000-07:002019-09-22T10:00:32.196-07:00The Man With The Perfect Palate. <span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Several months ago, Robert M. Parker Jr., the single most
influential person in the wine industry announced his resignation and retirement
from the <i>Wine Advocate</i>, a company he founded in 1978.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zYyGj6nPEKDY1jxn-9-owQ1smbjrwBhzV7GmQvIeFZFXQCgSCs_Ds3cT3_1xPc51wNrcKJS5frkSfIX4mJnxEhkogykFTot6ZKFZ2W61LxPcXx7S1N-dnR_H3JjxMn-QfktCsD3KjTg/s1600/Parker+taster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="201" data-original-width="143" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-zYyGj6nPEKDY1jxn-9-owQ1smbjrwBhzV7GmQvIeFZFXQCgSCs_Ds3cT3_1xPc51wNrcKJS5frkSfIX4mJnxEhkogykFTot6ZKFZ2W61LxPcXx7S1N-dnR_H3JjxMn-QfktCsD3KjTg/s200/Parker+taster.jpg" width="142" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">If you are a wine enthusiast (of any level)
and are unaware who Robert M. Parker Jr is, then this is your opportunity to
get up to speed. Quite simply, the wines you enjoy, particularly reds, can
be traced, stylistically, to Parker’s singular influence.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyziEElOqfaKf53flM78jOgOcowW33sThkr9VKDbHbfwEGM6EGooS5Vhk6xyNzBKNmp-o8KKHNKyjrWQpM9u2fT2pnmGOd3zMl62Xv3b6MTJNYanuVsajkI7fXpmAlyTgN7wU5-fyRnRY/s1600/100+point+wine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="165" data-original-width="250" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyziEElOqfaKf53flM78jOgOcowW33sThkr9VKDbHbfwEGM6EGooS5Vhk6xyNzBKNmp-o8KKHNKyjrWQpM9u2fT2pnmGOd3zMl62Xv3b6MTJNYanuVsajkI7fXpmAlyTgN7wU5-fyRnRY/s200/100+point+wine.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">If your wine-buying method targets 90+ rated wines (or
equivalent “star” methods), it’s derived from Parker’s 100 point system.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is really a 50 point system, for he gives
50 base points for simply showing up. Forty points are then assessed for depth
and intensity <i>in all aspects</i> of appearance (color), aroma and flavor, plus he gives ten points, at the end, for “overall quality and potential
to improve with aging.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> These are the make or break points that separate the good wines from the great. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dmPApJFS2N93IcoZKFKCQlTDi61UjWWpVwKlPOFRgpI3_OB_Os4snbEZuDUjoUMuSHpXIbLsiFGlZI90Z4WSUc-vJ1n-GlHF8LOT1XMtJl2NMa5YcpkdEIo3KoQKaDsBSeDkkDK-hF0/s1600/report_card.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="308" data-original-width="430" height="143" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2dmPApJFS2N93IcoZKFKCQlTDi61UjWWpVwKlPOFRgpI3_OB_Os4snbEZuDUjoUMuSHpXIbLsiFGlZI90Z4WSUc-vJ1n-GlHF8LOT1XMtJl2NMa5YcpkdEIo3KoQKaDsBSeDkkDK-hF0/s200/report_card.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">After being beguiled with wine while travelling
in France in 1967 with his wife to be, Parker returned to eventually develop and
test the acceptance of his grading system via a direct mail approach.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Prior to that, most wine buyers relied on
local retailers or lifestyle magazine articles, typically uncritical and
written by one with a wine industry connection who just spent a weekend of
wining and dining at a host Chateau. </span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">With that lack of transparency and Parker’s admiration
for consumer advocate Ralph Nader’s efforts, he decided to offer the general
public an alternate, more consumer friendly approach; numerically based wine
reviews; from one with no wine trade connections; who accepts no advertising or gifts; who acquires the wines at his own expense; and who is only one that performs the tastings (that changed in later years).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qTnqzwNHzmbJ3uoZSM6blInZFt8Ziw4dn97cpaB3krWDs3fRHbV1dEtPv7w5QO9kWRixV7FUK1mfvXxAohSl0P4iVn3oTdC_Pwj3URDTgA3tL6H8fO4QY6tJI8GbDYhjrVLj2797Z6U/s1600/newsletter2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="379" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qTnqzwNHzmbJ3uoZSM6blInZFt8Ziw4dn97cpaB3krWDs3fRHbV1dEtPv7w5QO9kWRixV7FUK1mfvXxAohSl0P4iVn3oTdC_Pwj3URDTgA3tL6H8fO4QY6tJI8GbDYhjrVLj2797Z6U/s200/newsletter2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">To test his idea, he
acquired customer mailing lists from wine shops, and mailed them a free
copy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Six hundred signed up for the second issue, and <i>The
Wine Advocate</i> was born. In 1984 he resigned his job as legal counsel for a government sponsored entity, and turned completely
to writing, which has been prodigious and profitable.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVsi3AkIi5K0DSa7dMZj4BZ2FY-a3fOd6BJBjgh0VzJi2qcoGcmwZNgkuekcCpDndkTaY63uQ0sG2zFdvjaoKNchwADmAAR3VE6mO3jI99WnNrRpx85g1bo9bDSe96FaOvtXFu3trneg/s1600/bordeaux.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="275" data-original-width="183" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzVsi3AkIi5K0DSa7dMZj4BZ2FY-a3fOd6BJBjgh0VzJi2qcoGcmwZNgkuekcCpDndkTaY63uQ0sG2zFdvjaoKNchwADmAAR3VE6mO3jI99WnNrRpx85g1bo9bDSe96FaOvtXFu3trneg/s200/bordeaux.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Besides his bimonthly newsletter,
from which he leveraged many successful, oversized, wine-buying guides, he
wrote brief articles for selected food/wine magazines and published detailed,
widely translated, authoritative books on Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhone
Valley.</span></div>
<div style="margin-top: 12.0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">With his rating system, there was no need to understand
the intricacies of appellations and/or the best producers therein. What one did
know was, if the wine was rated 90 to 95 (Outstanding), or 96 to 100
(Extraordinary), it was something worth seeking out.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Despite numerous journalistic criticisms, his
system prevailed, and all other critics and magazines either converted or
combined it with their own proprietary systems.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">His breakout into worldwide visibility and acceptance was
triggered by the 1982 Bordeaux vintage. Most critics were negative on it.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They asserted it was a hot weather anomaly, rather
atypical. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Parker, on the other hand, saw
it differently; he fully embraced it, and became its leading proponent.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">And why not?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It was a perfect template overlay of his rating system: gobs of rich,
ripe fruit; deep, dark, dense colors; intense aromatics and long lasting flavors.
Parker described the wines in such glowing, evocative terms that it was nearly
impossible for anyone to resist buying some of the 1982s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> H</span>is subscriber list increased
accordingly. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ12QFS0Goou2jNXm8DgmSnmIxCJXhKbENqQ2fNq2S5fNqw-gjZkuwbkskqSxqKU0l934B6CbFlJ590QWj6d6ZvIxt9EajIYKJW4cwzFaFoN_XC9oUVryCYche0ORGh0nLPz5mXaJiaDc/s1600/Parker3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="427" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ12QFS0Goou2jNXm8DgmSnmIxCJXhKbENqQ2fNq2S5fNqw-gjZkuwbkskqSxqKU0l934B6CbFlJ590QWj6d6ZvIxt9EajIYKJW4cwzFaFoN_XC9oUVryCYche0ORGh0nLPz5mXaJiaDc/s200/Parker3.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">As one businessman uttered long ago, “Find a need, and
fill it.”<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> The man with the perfect palate</span> did just that, and along the way his efforts not only assisted the
wine buying public, but it also changed the way grapes were grown, how wines were
crafted and how they were promoted and marketed.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 107%;">Seven years ago Parker sold a substantial
portion of his company to Singapore investors, Michelin later picked up forty
percent.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No figures have been revealed,
but you can rest assured, as an avowed hedonist, he will be eating and drinking
the finest for as long as he wants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-6865723423893694272019-08-17T10:43:00.000-07:002019-08-18T20:26:01.962-07:00The What and Why of blended wines.<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkLll4BIPQuhXZt3dtVjcTvRd1Gf2L3jFkmOc9joP2_X50PY8G2GcqPQTBmWfqHihJRlDWP3dBSl4FNIdBCiVnrRac1_8I0BqUemANAVyTbw-AXIplWL9wIxGTGSEmQgfr3WBntrJICQ/s1600/Fat+B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="240" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYkLll4BIPQuhXZt3dtVjcTvRd1Gf2L3jFkmOc9joP2_X50PY8G2GcqPQTBmWfqHihJRlDWP3dBSl4FNIdBCiVnrRac1_8I0BqUemANAVyTbw-AXIplWL9wIxGTGSEmQgfr3WBntrJICQ/s200/Fat+B.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Most wine enthusiasts know New World wines are labeled
either as 1) the main varietal which underlies the wine, or as 2) a blended, proprietary wine that is branded and trademarked by the producer.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are
examples of the former, with <i>Yellow Tail</i> (from Australia) and <i>Fat
Bastard</i> (From France) exemplifying the latter. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>In Europe, wines are (primarily) labeled and
identified by their appellation—the geographical region where it is produced;
for example, France’s Bordeaux and Spain’s Rioja are world class appellations.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Varietally labeled wines must contain at least 75% of
the underlying grape identified on the label. I’m guessing most contain 95% or more.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>With anything less than that, especially at the
permissible 75% level, it would so drastically affect and alter the base wine,
that it would likely look, smell and taste like something far different, and,
thereby, become a <i>de facto</i> blend. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVYbe05SZ3lgcntqbB9hbucGobu-ijejrklV2-5zr6_UbXP2ClW2Ok3MmjqmUMmOcMSKUamD6faOFUqfSGigo9OXX7JNMgpLUT1nyamiXA3HBWDbIG4ZN70QLxkv_8a-yWvfbiahJ1_I/s1600/red+cluster.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="251" data-original-width="167" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYVYbe05SZ3lgcntqbB9hbucGobu-ijejrklV2-5zr6_UbXP2ClW2Ok3MmjqmUMmOcMSKUamD6faOFUqfSGigo9OXX7JNMgpLUT1nyamiXA3HBWDbIG4ZN70QLxkv_8a-yWvfbiahJ1_I/s200/red+cluster.png" width="133" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="color: black; font-family: "georgia" , serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Blended wines are what their name suggests. They
typically consist of at least 40-50 percent of the primary grape plus smaller amounts
of supporting grapes.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Each
grape has a very specific set of underlying qualities that reflects how it
looks, smells, tastes, and feels.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Those
underlying qualities can be drawn upon (selectively) by the winemaker to create
the style he/she intends.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>While Europe
has many well known blends (e.g. Bordeaux, Rioja, Chianti), Napa Valley has
achieved a notable level of fame for a couple of its blends. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnXbnMeMTqORzhKRrBleLOJu0aI5_2wtxSbwEkw_0XeijyBdvk9fV-1oGEPVA8nbAD-tadsFyQmiJBz_tn8MIwZZCyToV8ThzQGUGG_cysr-JiyQLhY1BgDTgU21zbeSqH_jEUxMBt4kk/s1600/prisoner2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="295" data-original-width="187" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnXbnMeMTqORzhKRrBleLOJu0aI5_2wtxSbwEkw_0XeijyBdvk9fV-1oGEPVA8nbAD-tadsFyQmiJBz_tn8MIwZZCyToV8ThzQGUGG_cysr-JiyQLhY1BgDTgU21zbeSqH_jEUxMBt4kk/s200/prisoner2.jpg" width="126" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">When the now famous <i>Prisone</i>r red wine was first
released, I snickered at the alleged blend of grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon,
Zinfandel, Petit Syrah, and Charbono—the blackest of black grapes!<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Finesse and elegance did not seem to be the
objective. Rather, deep and dark, rich and ripe, oily smooth, and being
intensely concentrated was the goal. It has been wildly successful, and my
snickering ceased when I recently read the brand name was sold for allegedly
well in excess of $250 million.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdevSroHKuf-2E3SrF-DlNFZjqzVo_wZXovY22YKusDbX1y5sjNR7etU-w11vHCy1uwn2zxzVnvmNeclfKCyZacKvFAGznlI7o549U5FFXXnsRPucyD1PoRMt6EwpUsgli8KEzvQc-5Kk/s1600/meiomi+pinot1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="290" data-original-width="218" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdevSroHKuf-2E3SrF-DlNFZjqzVo_wZXovY22YKusDbX1y5sjNR7etU-w11vHCy1uwn2zxzVnvmNeclfKCyZacKvFAGznlI7o549U5FFXXnsRPucyD1PoRMt6EwpUsgli8KEzvQc-5Kk/s200/meiomi+pinot1.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Another Napa Valley brand, Meiomi Pinot Noir, was
rumored to have a very unusual mix of grapes for its highly successful red. <span style="margin: 0px;"> According </span>to a respected wine magazine,
Meiomi’s Pinot Noir blend included small amounts of Riesling, Gewurztraminer,
Chardonnay and Grenache. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Although unloved
by the critics because of its sweetness level and very general AVA sources, the
brand name reportedly was sold for over $300 million.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_MCmdd45vNGVCPqwAQ0XO6XcwVFhEWmJx68RMBN9UhXViaGRVOud_LTYeaZ_P_OE5uGohZ_vdmfgG3jGIp2_LzJnlVkeXtXFbijCDPGWPWB1Fj6dt_qATSextL8dEXVMf8-9_FP2nx9w/s1600/red+bicyclette.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="245" data-original-width="223" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_MCmdd45vNGVCPqwAQ0XO6XcwVFhEWmJx68RMBN9UhXViaGRVOud_LTYeaZ_P_OE5uGohZ_vdmfgG3jGIp2_LzJnlVkeXtXFbijCDPGWPWB1Fj6dt_qATSextL8dEXVMf8-9_FP2nx9w/s200/red+bicyclette.jpg" width="182" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 0px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">But there’s blending, and then there’s when
something more is going on than merely tweaking a wine’s ultimate identity.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>In the popular 2004 movie <i>Sideways</i>,
the character Miles savaged Merlot’s reputation, and by default, made Pinot
Noir America’s “with it" red wine.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Capitalizing
on that, Gallo began importing the <i>Red Bicyclette,</i> an inexpensive Pinot
Noir from France’s hot Languedoc region.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>Eighteen million bottles were sold over a two year period, but <i><span style="color: #767676; margin: 0px;">Sacré bleu</span></i>, that was about one third more than
could realistically have been produced there! French authorities sniffed
out the deception: when Pinot Noir inventories were depleted, the <i>Bicyclette</i>
was then bottled with (gasp!) mostly Merlot. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM6BZkswQkQzVA8nkYFadrcVxpoFLhklnTTdyFvGGdIp1Um33uIsBDfJ6bj40PO0tqxk2e7MDXKv4TVkRjSqFjjVmDSFxGJELexNcBHUYdfJoL4BgYbDhrRQUCvOFd-hW2Pl180Z_MRiM/s1600/austrian+white+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="281" height="142" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM6BZkswQkQzVA8nkYFadrcVxpoFLhklnTTdyFvGGdIp1Um33uIsBDfJ6bj40PO0tqxk2e7MDXKv4TVkRjSqFjjVmDSFxGJELexNcBHUYdfJoL4BgYbDhrRQUCvOFd-hW2Pl180Z_MRiM/s200/austrian+white+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="margin: 16px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Those of you who’ve lived
in regions with volatile swings in temperatures, know that diethylene glycol,
an engine coolant known as antifreeze, is needed to avoid freezing the radiator
in winter as well as to avoid overheating in summer. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>But who ever thought it might be beneficial in
wine—summer or winter?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Well, a few 1985 Austrian
bulk wine producers did, as they were caught adding vintage radiator coolant to
increase the sweetness octane in white wines.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>Needless to say, Austrian exports crashed, and it took years for the
industry to recover.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<div style="margin: 16px 0px 10.66px;">
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Shortly after that in
1986, and far more incredulously, an Italian winemaker decided to boost the
alcohol and body level in his wimpy Barbera by adding methanol (wood alcohol)
to it.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>It fatally poisoned twenty-three
and hospitalized another ninety.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>He and
an additional twelve others were arrested and charged with manslaughter. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>One can only wonder, “What were they
thinking?” </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">My current favorite red,
Brunello di Montalcino, also experienced its own “time in the barrel."<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Sangiovese, the only authorized underlying
grape, is not known for being intensely dark. After years of persistent rumors,
it was revealed in 2008 that several (if not many) Brunello producers, wanting
to give consumers their preferred, inky-black reds, were enhancing their
Sangiovese with other, unapproved red grapes.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>Wines were declassified, fines were levied and reputations were
affected, but if anything, and since then, the appellation has roared back and
is receiving uniform acclaim for most of the recent vintages.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Irrespective of the above
vino-trivia, and if you've endured to this point, I wrap up this novella with a wish that you’re drinking the real thing,
however it may be labeled; that it’s true to and representative of its type; that
it’s well made, flavorsome and priced right; and that’s it’s one you would, and
do, share with friends.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Cheers!</span></span></div>
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<br />tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-7174813404842954172019-06-18T12:35:00.000-07:002019-06-18T12:37:19.184-07:00Why even bother to taste?<br />
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; margin: 0px;">When I first started this blog, one of my
friends bugged me to, “Please stop your human interest side-stories, and just
tell me which wines I should be drinking!”</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOv_X58kYSbfiDoqSr0S5Qj1zw4gV-nLmVgIGmv5nLaSUkPuH0cwPnyP1Hi6DvxaGOLsYuiyK7-QCWL5ufSY07OFDk8NPx10myF3pYqC6S2e_wpVjZyL1Zie1ZGQHgPxJVZBl802GwmGk/s1600/shop+now+90%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="158" data-original-width="335" height="93" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOv_X58kYSbfiDoqSr0S5Qj1zw4gV-nLmVgIGmv5nLaSUkPuH0cwPnyP1Hi6DvxaGOLsYuiyK7-QCWL5ufSY07OFDk8NPx10myF3pYqC6S2e_wpVjZyL1Zie1ZGQHgPxJVZBl802GwmGk/s200/shop+now+90%252B.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; margin: 0px;">Following my failure to divine his wine preferences, he moved on like many wine
enthusiasts to buying wines “by the numbers,” which included those rated 90+ at
retail stores, the four or five-star champs at various wine apps, and social
media recommendations. Indeed, why bother to taste wines, when someone else has
already done the heavy lifting for you?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span><span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Despite the proliferation of such advice, there are a
few with the opinion that tastings, ratings, and reviews of any kind, including even
narrative descriptions of a wine’s characteristic aromas and flavors, are
nothing but “bullshit.”<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Pay no attention
they say; they are irrelevant, worthless. But interestingly, there are truths
that back up that scatological utterance. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3YYHLX_p4VjXIBHrhXNQMF-tLzuHqHly8PJPiVipCmedhh-u8hTqennhIhTdSAPimE-aWFS8RjFl6l-ei6ZAgjSt0LtPNOy-ALwymknV_U8qFpFgstA0SVhuNPfymlxmVYBBJRCP2RoM/s1600/bad+wine1.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="200" data-original-width="250" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3YYHLX_p4VjXIBHrhXNQMF-tLzuHqHly8PJPiVipCmedhh-u8hTqennhIhTdSAPimE-aWFS8RjFl6l-ei6ZAgjSt0LtPNOy-ALwymknV_U8qFpFgstA0SVhuNPfymlxmVYBBJRCP2RoM/s200/bad+wine1.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">In addition to the inherent weakness that tastings are
subjective, there are studies that point to the following: that wine experts
couldn’t distinguish a white wine (dyed red) from a true red wine; that well
known bottle labels with plonk inside outscore unknown labels with same wine
inside: that one’s repeat tastings of the same wine often yield different
scores; and tasting context, where and under what circumstances, frequently yields
varying results.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2ysUWzd1FHrhyphenhyphendRx42jEmwe35yKl6lqtpc5DJZhkqX5UdJlNDZZ5a-SSGbYiT5EntXTQuiuBczupcfifzygkbc7Y4ojISslJPVmnJAU6aBpaHmAaN92eB65Fp3lrv1-ESacJ14KyJq4/s1600/wine+and+dine.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="218" data-original-width="333" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh2ysUWzd1FHrhyphenhyphendRx42jEmwe35yKl6lqtpc5DJZhkqX5UdJlNDZZ5a-SSGbYiT5EntXTQuiuBczupcfifzygkbc7Y4ojISslJPVmnJAU6aBpaHmAaN92eB65Fp3lrv1-ESacJ14KyJq4/s200/wine+and+dine.png" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">To be sure, professional critics taste, but more
importantly <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">assess</i>, for a different
reason than the general public does. The former does it to make a profit—to
sell subscriptions and/or to help sell wines.<span style="margin: 0px;">
</span>It’s a business, and a very useful one, for it also helps the average
wine consumer overcome the uncertainty and angst of buying wine. </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">The ultimate
consumer, however, drinks wine (and beer, cola and water!) as a food accompaniment, and often
simply as a “mere beverage” to help move the food solids into the digestive
track. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span><span style="margin: 0px;"> </span><span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">But back to the question posed by the headline. Why
bother making an informed opinion on the wine in the stemware?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>For this tooth-stained wine enthusiast, the
answer is, “To maximize your wine enjoyment.” <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Moreover, to fully enjoy and appreciate the
benefits and pleasures that wine deliver, you should try going beyond merely relying
on “I like it,” or “It tastes good,” or “It’s rated a 95!” <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">In the interests of assisting you in becoming an
informed taster, let’s review some of the basics of Wine 101.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>In the see/swirl/sniff/savor protocol, one
must decide if the wine typically and faithfully represents the wine’s
underlying grape(s).<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Does it look like,
smell like, and taste like, for example, a Pinot Noir?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>If not, why not?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Implicit in that tasting routine is that you have an
awareness of the inherent characteristics of the underlying grape(s); its
typical color, aroma, and flavor, plus its normal palate and structural aspects
like sweetness, acidity, tannins and body level.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Without that knowledge, you’re stuck in the
“tastes good” syndrome.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrC2rQOJ-8Do2YvO6-vs_DbBL3BlPM3AOLUpMx6Hsa1_tBb9M6aN-Au_ibr9MyGq7uHtjAb7xtaGqbFvVe6PMvBQpjj6eeFm0u-_C8Y-nFYE3prX-zQtxZ9U-e7MiklIo8fX8c_3EAxw/s1600/grape+variety+book.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="247" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrC2rQOJ-8Do2YvO6-vs_DbBL3BlPM3AOLUpMx6Hsa1_tBb9M6aN-Au_ibr9MyGq7uHtjAb7xtaGqbFvVe6PMvBQpjj6eeFm0u-_C8Y-nFYE3prX-zQtxZ9U-e7MiklIo8fX8c_3EAxw/s200/grape+variety+book.jpg" width="185" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">If you’re not up
to speed in knowing the underlying characteristics of the most popular grapes,
then now’s the time.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Numerous Internet
web sites are available that will help to quickly bridge that gap.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Moreover, a little reading plus a little
drinking is not a bad routine to get into.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman" , serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Finally, appreciating wine is no different than
appreciating classical or jazz music, oil or water color paintings, ballet or
modern dance. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>One can be involved with focused,
mindful attention, and relish in the components and complexities, or one can unwittingly,
or even deliberately, let the details slide by without connecting. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>I suppose it’s a matter of curiosity, a
question of perspective, or ultimately, the importance of even caring.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Are you content with your level of wine
appreciation? </span></div>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1163186080611724978.post-11710576248238576702019-04-18T08:55:00.000-07:002019-04-19T09:55:31.291-07:00How wine is pampered before you purchase it. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqvapIKelAlVpx5eTKzAHz5wlrZSIvk1bcMhNoMV0FYjbJs5t_zRlFzNzNe6iN6S-CX5cfwQUypf4vCj_p-YzNSxRg6aDMxV7BLd9OCLJN1w2zxNJrwncguuCyTPmdGmbqvVjViFwAZE/s1600/orson2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="207" data-original-width="162" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKqvapIKelAlVpx5eTKzAHz5wlrZSIvk1bcMhNoMV0FYjbJs5t_zRlFzNzNe6iN6S-CX5cfwQUypf4vCj_p-YzNSxRg6aDMxV7BLd9OCLJN1w2zxNJrwncguuCyTPmdGmbqvVjViFwAZE/s200/orson2.jpg" width="156" /></a></div>
<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">If you are of a certain age, you might recall
the oversized actor Orson Welles gasping his way through TV commercials for <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Paul Masson Winery</i>, alerting us with convincing, resonant tones that Masson, “Will sell no wine before its time.”<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>It was a clever marketing pitch, from a
credible source, while deftly implying their competitors just might be doing
the opposite</span><br />
<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span></span><br />
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Masson was simply ensuring their wines were
palatable before they were shipped to grocery stores.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Most of us would be hard pressed (pun
intended) to appreciate the mouthfeel and flavors of wine, especially reds,
shortly after fermentation. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>It is
acidic, astringent, and unacceptably harsh. So, between that savage, untamed
state and the final bottling, (anywhere from a few months to a year or more), a
carefully monitored maturing and aging environment is needed to ensure the wine
will evolve to a more palatable, flavorsome state. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">While some writers use the term<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"> aging</i> to describe the above process, others
prefer to limit <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">aging </i>to the time a bottled
wine is stored in temperature controlled wine cellars (or the bedroom closet!).<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Maturing</i>,
therefore, is limited to the mellowing and further development of wine after
fermentation and prior to bottling.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>It’s
a nitpick for sure, but one worth noting for good “cocktail hour” trivia
discussions. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">There are two well known fermentation/aging
vessels that are routinely used for maturing the wine, as well as two lesser known ones.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Temperature controlled
stainless steel tanks and oak barrels are the most commonly utilized. The
former is primarily for white wines, and the sealed environment is such that it
produces a balanced combination of fruity freshness, lively acidity, and aromas
and flavors that clearly reflect the characteristics of the underlying grape.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Hj7FWGWIpmzFAJP57Ogtv9KbfghrZllKcUXqO9PRL7MRz20xRnCADpoRVOr4nxgJNU_nyyjWyRvKUS1TGHTJkgG9HdgnFbR1ynLjAJBpKQz1bzYp0TlU5GamDaJXoiCYeNpbHTYcnt8/s1600/barrels4.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="226" data-original-width="347" height="130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Hj7FWGWIpmzFAJP57Ogtv9KbfghrZllKcUXqO9PRL7MRz20xRnCADpoRVOr4nxgJNU_nyyjWyRvKUS1TGHTJkgG9HdgnFbR1ynLjAJBpKQz1bzYp0TlU5GamDaJXoiCYeNpbHTYcnt8/s200/barrels4.png" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">The situation with respect to oak barrels is
quite different and far more intricate. While barrels are occasionally used for
whites, their primary use is for the fermentation, maturation and extended
aging of red wine. Because they are porous, they impart aromas and flavors of
the toasted wood, as well as permitting a carefully monitored evaporation
(think concentration), both of which, in sum, deliver appealing aromas and
flavors plus improved structural aspects. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">However, not “any old barrel” will do. Depending
on the underlying grape and the intended wine style, a variety of barrel options
ensue.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>French, American or
Slavonian?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Tightness of grain?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>New or previously used (aka Neutral)?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Barrel size? <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Toasting (charring) level?<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>And without torturing you with five or six
more paragraphs, permit me this shorthand alternative: each of those variables delivers
its own characteristics and nuances, much like diverse seasonings do for a complex,
palate-pleasing dinner recipe.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">The last two vessels for maturing wines are (egg-shaped)
concrete and (clay-based) amphora.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Concrete
use has been around since the mid 1800s, but the egg shape is new based on the
efficiencies of the vessel being round, not square. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Fermenting white wine in concrete eggs are selectively used in the Rhone Valley, Australia, South Africa, Chile and Napa Valley. <span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Eggs appear to
offer the best of both stainless steel and oak barrels, with fruity freshness and
primary aromas from the former, plus body, richness and texture (without the
oaky spices) from the latter. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">Although known by other names, (qveri in
Georgia, tinaja in Spain), amphora is the better known name for the clay/earthenware
aging vessels whose use dates back to the ancient Greeks and Romans.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Their maturing/aging qualities are similar to
concrete eggs, but apparently deliver a livelier level of that overused descriptor
known as <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">minerality</i>.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Time will tell, but the use of both eggs and
amphora are not likely to be employed on a large-scaled basis. </span></div>
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<span style="color: #4d4d4f; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.5pt; line-height: 107%; margin: 0px;">So, let’s review how a
carefully designed process of maturation and aging elevates the character of a
wine.<span style="margin: 0px;"> <span style="background-color: transparent; color: #4d4d4f; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 16.66px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 17.33px; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">It enhances aroma, body and flavor.</span> </span>It provides a smoother texture and mouthfeel.<span style="margin: 0px;"> </span>Plus it
develops a well-balanced structure, all of which deliver the “finishing
touches” that will, in the end, spell the difference between a run-of-the-mill pour, and a deliciously complex wine with a variety of interesting qualities.<span style="margin: 0px;"> And </span>while there are many who will prefer the
former, it also would be time well spent discovering what they’re missing with
the latter. </span></div>
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike>tomhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08707222436734706111noreply@blogger.com0